Symptoms of a bad cam chain?

what he said

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bench syncing carbs is not the same a syncing with carb stick or gauges,

Never done a bench sync , waste of time IMO (its just to be able to start the engine)

Always do it with the gauges (and with the engine hot)

If not recently done, would lube pivot points on timing advancer and assure it's fully and immediately closing whenever rpm drops to idle.

Oil bath every months plus throttle cable is new no kinks slide easily and checked slack of course!

You should see the return springs on my carbs... i may not have a return cable but damn 4 big springs are more than enough to dislodge any stuck cable by itself!

One thing I learned from Plumi & Larry and through experience... The exhaust side will change on you due to heat so open them up just a tad more... This may also be due to performance camshaft upgrades. I measure my shims to keep at the following.

OMR, thats make sense since my 810cc kit runs hotter than stock it could expend more than told in the manual...

kawa says 0.08mm to 0.18mm no adjustment required

I will try to find 2.00 mm shims (smallest available, but not available from Z1) since most of the exhaust valve are on a 2.05mm shims

thanks guys!

regards,
laurent

Im curious but what symptoms does your bike have that makes you think it's the cam chain? I was searching through forums trying to diagnose my own bike problems. At low speeds from a complete stop and into 2nd gear my bike has a chain-like rattle and it is a little jerky until i get up to speed. If that is similar to your problem then it looks like i need to replace the tensioner and or check the synch on my carbs? Good luck to you!

ELCouz wrote: yep,

Exhaust valves:
#1 0.13mm
#2 0.12mm
#3 0.13mm
#4 0.10mm

Intake valves:
#5 0.17mm
#6 0.17mm
#7 0.16mm
#8 0.14mm

carb sync last check was today, well within FSM tolerance.

Jettings are perfect so is idle mixture adjustment screws (confirmed with Colortune and exhaust sniffer)

Idle is around 10:1 A/F mixture which is ideal for air cooled engines (kept engine cooler with a little bit more fuel)

regards,
laurent

id normally set the intake valves closer to tight side of scale and exhuast valves looser due higher exhuast valve temps compared to intake valves

If that is similar to your problem then it looks like i need to replace the tensioner and or check the synch on my carbs? Good luck to you!

I will try the ape tensioner, but now riding season is coming to an end. Done for me, put too much cash on the bike this year...

Im curious but what symptoms does your bike have that makes you think it's the cam chain?

Too much cam chain rattle at idle while carbs are in perfect sync!

I had a very lengthy discussion and many topics started about my problems (this one in particular) search for my name on the forum maybe it could help you but so far for my idle has always been my problem.

id normally set the intake valves closer to tight side of scale and exhuast valves looser due higher exhuast valve temps compared to intake valves

Yeah but i'm 1 shim adjustment of being out of service limit (the next smallest shim is 2.00mm on nearly all exhaust valves)! (recent valve job didn't help)

I think they screw up the valve job... normally they would ask to ship the cam caps to try the valve height with a camshaft or something but they didn't... that must be why my valve are now nearly too long

regards,
laurent

yeah they should have tipped your valves while it was apart,ape sells a tool for checking installed height on valves in a bare head

cam chain will rattle a little on a cold engine,same with low idle speed.
you can measure the links on cam chain to check for stretch