Oil Leak only at highway speeds

rcarver wrote: ...am dying to know if tightening my loose exhaust bolts fixed the leak for good....

rcarver wrote: Well got the timing chain tensioner installed so I was able to fire her back up and unfortunately the oil leak is still happening. I determined the oil leak is coming from between the head and bottom end.

My plan is to re-torque the cylinder head nuts...hopefully that will resolve the oil leak.

I'm all ears if anyone else has ideas.

rcarver wrote: here is a shot of the oil leak...it is located right where the internal cylinder head bolt is located on the front of the motor. I was thinking about taking out the cams and re-torquing those bolts (along with all the cylinder head nuts) but the manual says it is only necessary during first tune-up after purchasing the bike new.
But I figure it can't hurt to re-torque them or can it?

I have completed the following in efforts to repair it:
1) full tach seal/housing rebuild, with new tach cable
2) cam end plugs not leaking
3) new valve cover gasket, valve cover re-torqued
4) exhaust nuts re-torqued

Patton wrote:

rcarver wrote: here is a shot of the oil leak...it is located right where the internal cylinder head bolt is located on the front of the motor. I was thinking about taking out the cams and re-torquing those bolts (along with all the cylinder head nuts) but the manual says it is only necessary during first tune-up after purchasing the bike new.
But I figure it can't hurt to re-torque them or can it?

I have completed the following in efforts to repair it:
1) full tach seal/housing rebuild, with new tach cable
2) cam end plugs not leaking
3) new valve cover gasket, valve cover re-torqued
4) exhaust nuts re-torqued

Won't hurt to attempt a re-torque on a stone cold engine (after sitting overnight), and best to not "loosen" any nut a little bit before re-torquing to spec. Betcha' they aren't loose.

Thanks for the pics, but can't really tell too much, because was expecting and wanting to see a dark spot on white powder.

Torquing exhaust clamp nuts often doesn't help where a new copper gasket is needed.

A new valve cover gasket often leaks unless the mating surfaces have been first returned to a perfectly clean as-new condition. This means not even a tiny speck of black residue remaining on any part of the surfaces.

A leak-down test may help diagnose and verify a possible leak in the head gasket.
And would do this before removing the head.

New tach drive inner shaft seal and new o'ring(s) around the tach drive case should rule out the tach drive as a possible oil leak source.

Good Fortune!