How to adjust APE cam chain tensioner

Just ordered an APE cam chaine tensioner for my 1980 750-4 LTD.

When it shows up I'm gonna put it on right away.

Any tidbits of advice I should know? Think I'll be able to do it without removing the carbs? (really getting sick of that)

Also, once its on, how do I know how tight to make it?

www.aperaceparts.com/tech/tensioners.html

Wow, just seems un-exact science. I'm worried I might over tighten or undertighten it...

Almost sounds like a two person job...

I have the APE tensioner on my 650, installing and adjusting it is pretty straightforward, even for one person.


APE's instructions:

'To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing tensioner in. When you feel the engine tensioners parts (guides, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt up 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut. Caution: Do NOT over tighten the cam chain, as cam chain guide damage could occur. Be sure jam nut is tight against tensioner body when complete'


Quoting myself from another site:

When installing and adjusting the tensioner following the procedure above, the engine should be rotated slowly forward BY HAND, using the 17mm nut on the crankshaft (removing the spark plugs makes rotating a whole lot easier).

As the procedure says, once you feel the tensioner parts making contact, back it up a little (app. 1/4 turn) and tighten the lock nut. DO NOT crank the engine with the starter before you get to this point.

Once the tensioner is installed and adjusted you can start the engine - if the cam chain rattles excessively, shut off the engine and tighten the tensioner a bit more, then restart and check, repeat until satisfied.

There are people who claim you can fine adjust the tensioner with the engine running and they may be right, personally I would never run the engine with the tensioner lock nut loosened.

"Once the tensioner is installed and adjusted you can start the engine - if the cam chain rattles excessively, shut off the engine and tighten the tensioner a bit more, then restart and check, repeat until satisfied."

That is the method I used. After following APE's instructions, my timming chain would make noise when the engine was warmed up. I would keep tighteneing the tensioner untill it quieted down. If you go too far you will hear a whinning sound, just back off at that point. Some poeple leave them a bit loose to stay on the safe side. Once you start messing around with it you'll see it is a pretty simple thing to set up.

whats wrong with your stock tensioner?

wireman wrote: whats wrong with your stock tensioner?

"Stock sucks" or something like that I read on here recently.Lol.bj

OnkelB wrote: There are people who claim you can fine adjust the tensioner with the engine running and they may be right, personally I would never run the engine with the tensioner lock nut loosened.

I always adjust the tensioner while the engine is running. APE tensioner is just a screw that passes through the coils of the tensioner body and if you loose lock nut on that bolt it will not move anywhere. In this way you can gently move tensioner with your 2 fingers until you set up the best engine sound. Before I got the ape tensioner I fought an eternal battle with strange engine sounds

Thanks for the help guys... Makes me feel a bit more confident about this.

@ wireman: www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/447053-rythmic-ticking-750-4

Had a odd ticking noise that I can't pinpoint. I've been told stockers can be unreliable.

usually by the people who sell manual ones im sure! :woohoo:

wireman wrote: usually by the people who sell manual ones im sure! :woohoo:

hahahahahaha

I actually think the stock ones were pretty good but I did replace mine with an APE manual style one when the threads on the the original adjustment bolt stripped.

I set the timing mark to "T". Tighten the bolt until I just feel resistance and then back off by one flat of the bolt head (1/6 rather than 1/4 of a turn) and set the locknut.

You might be able to replace without removing the carbs.

OK, as I said in your other post (missed this one :laugh: ) - and I might get blasted for it!--- but here goes.

If you do the tentioner the way ape describes and then start up your bike, you WILL get a ticking, sometimes light clunking sound, because it IS NOT tight enough!

OK - here goes, flame on :laugh:

When installing the manual tentioner, dont bother with thier "set to TDC, then finger tighten and forget it", its BS and doesnt set it correctly in comparison to the old wedge type.

Set the crank to TDC, then tighten with fingers until the tentioner stops (gentle pressure like your throttle grip at cruise), then begin turning the crank over (forward as usual with 17mm socket), and the tentioner will easily and loosely begin to turn in further taking up the spaces in the chain slack, even with just slight turning/finger pressure. Continue to turn over the crank several times with gentle finger pressure on the tentioner and you will feel when it has taken all the slack, and needent go any further.

You will immediately know if you tighten it too far past the point of just continuous friction, because you will feel the change in pressure required to turn the crank. the guides WONT GET DAMGED, thats why you put oil in these things, its not like your cranking it down! The old tentioners maintained constant pressure...

you're basically recreating what the old spring tentioners did when the engine was being started. Slowly maintaining pressure, continuously throughout the travel of the cam chain, not just at TDC!

Sounds a little difficult, I know, but you'll get it as soon as you try, its really fairly easy, and its ok to be a small amount over tight, as things loosen up at temp and will stretch into place with some miles.

Also, if your old tentioner was wack, the new one will add some pep back to your bike by bringing the cam timing closer to stock.

Good luck!