engine compression79 kz1000

trianglelaguna wrote: that many miles dont mean 100% that it is a valve.seats/rings/bore loose.....sea foam and a few rides may clean or free something up.....the condition of the bike may be a clue and the head swap alsoo...but it aint but ten bucks to clean it out with sea foam and see...

I have only ridden it in the parking lot of my shop which isnt very big. Im not confortable taking on the road to far yet. I still have to do a few things to take on the road.
I have a few other issues im working out. I have a post in electrical and cabs. Most of which i have ironed out.
I really enjoy working on it and leearning alot from you guys on here.
thanks

It sure looks like a top end rebuild at least, those compression #'s are way out of balance. That popping sound like a cylinder randomly firing, and an exhaust leak at either the pipes of head gasket?
You could do a leak down test to find where the compression is going, but really you need to pull it apart and rebuild. Then with the parts either out for service or whatever, check into the ignition system, also make sure those carbs are set up correctly. Jet them for the pods, and make sure the float valves function correctly, and the height for fuel is correct. Use the clear tube method, as it will verify the level for sure.

Sounds like running on three cylinders.
Which might also explain needing the relatively high idle rpm.

Would install four brand new NGKB8ES spark plugs and re-test.

Good Fortune!

Looking at your plugs,#1 and #3 are carboned up pretty bad.U may have a weak #1 coil.would give it a check per the manual,make sure all connections are good prior to tearing into an engine rebuild.Coils are relatively cheap compared to engine rebuild.bj

Patton wrote:

davelKZ1000 wrote: I coyldnt fit the air box i bought on it. So i think i am gonna have to do the pods. I have stock exhaust
Will this be hard to get it to run right? Does it really matter if i buy the k&n verse the cheaper ones?
Thank you

The carbs pictured are very user-friendly Mikuni 26mm mechanical slide carbs with side-located pilot air screw. If had to fit pods in lieu of airbox, these particular carbs would be first preference.

Okay to use the less expensive pods. Can upgrade later if desired. When fitting, assure the non-K&N pod rubber isn't obstructing any of the carb's small air intake holes.

Should be able to tune podded carbs for decent performance. As known, one pod issue is difficulty in gaining optimum performance throughout the entire range of carb function.

Good Fortune!

are you sure they arent 28s?

wireman wrote:

Patton wrote:

davelKZ1000 wrote: I coyldnt fit the air box i bought on it. So i think i am gonna have to do the pods. I have stock exhaust
Will this be hard to get it to run right? Does it really matter if i buy the k&n verse the cheaper ones?
Thank you

The carbs pictured are very user-friendly Mikuni 26mm mechanical slide carbs with side-located pilot air screw. If had to fit pods in lieu of airbox, these particular carbs would be first preference.

Okay to use the less expensive pods. Can upgrade later if desired. When fitting, assure the non-K&N pod rubber isn't obstructing any of the carb's small air intake holes.

Should be able to tune podded carbs for decent performance. As known, one pod issue is difficulty in gaining optimum performance throughout the entire range of carb function.

Good Fortune!

are you sure they arent 28s?

Thanks, wireman!

Had forgotten '79 KZ1000 increased to 28mm.

Thinking otherwise basically same as 26mm on KZ900.

Good Fortune!

they basically look like same carbs to me,but i noticed the float bowls looked differant.

According to my book the 79 ltd has 26s but than it doesnt list adjustment for tge air mixture screw.
im confused. How can i be sure?

can you post a picture of bottem side of carbs?

wireman wrote: can you post a picture of bottem side of carbs?

according to the float bowls and the accelerator pump im gonna say 28s