noisy cam chain

DanOz7Five0 wrote:

Is changing the Hi-Vo cam chain as simple as the "bicycle" cam chain type? The one I sent to you, Gas was for the bicycle type correct?. I dont think you can break the Hi-Vo chain and Im assuming that changing that one would require a rebuild.

Somebody correct me if Im wrong though, Im thinking Im ready for a new cam chain or a manual adjuster myself.

We had a discussion on the HyVo chain replacement recently, and I posted a link to the page on Z1 Enterprises that has the replacement chain and chain breaker. So, yes it can be replaced without splitting the cases

Replace it all!!! Buy the aftermarket APE tensioner, Liska top idler, all the bushings and the chain. Better now than a top end rebuild when it lets go.

here's my take on loose chains

a loose cam chain interferes with valve timing
slack on the back side lets the valve springs push the camshaft's rotation ahead of the chain. this happens near the top of the lobe and reduces the time that the valve is 'fully' open. the profile is shortened and advanced. performance suffers.

chain wear limits are assessed by measuring the length of the chain between some specified number of links on a few different sections of chain.

Lots of different types of advice in this thread. Some things to think about are how much you intend to spend and how much time to invest in this cam chain project.

If you replace the chain with a MASTER LINK style chain, it will take approxiately an hour or so plus you should probably get the correct tool to remove and then install the master link. Total cost will be about $100-150 for the chain and tool. You can replace the upper idler assembly while doing this job without engine disassembly.

If you replace the chain with an endless chain, you can pull the engine and pull off the lower case. You can only replace the upper idler assembly when doing this, if needed. You will need a gasket set as all cover gaskets have to be replaced which means cleaning the gasket mating surface. This is probably a full day's work for someone who hasn't done it... perhaps two days.

If you install all new cam chain bits, you will have to pull the engine and remove the head and block. This will include all the work in the previous steps plug the head and block work and you will probably want to do other things (valves? rings?) while in there. You can run into hundreds of bucks doing this "cam chain" job.

FWIW: I don't much care for the APE style cam chain tensioner, especially for folks who are not pretty good mechanics as you need to have a real good feel for cam chain tension to tension the chain properly using a totally manual tensioner. The OEM manual tensioner doesn't require much feel. Also, the main thing that causes noise in the cam chain bits other than the chain itself are the rubber dampeners which harden and grow brittle with age. In the front of the block is a cam chain bit that is held in by a single phillips screw and I guarantee you that it needs to be replaced as it WILL be cracked if it is there at all. It tends to deteriorate the quickest. Jeff at www.z1enterprises.com can get you all the parts you need to do whichever type job you decide is best.

Im gonna ride it like i built it cause i did.
if she seperates i rebuild her again. Thanks guys.
I think these bikes are old and noisy any way, guess ill find out.

how about measuring the chain to see how much its stretched?:whistle:

I did measure it before i put it back togeather.



















I did measure it. my manual really didnt give qa good idea of how to check it. if it bends in a pronanced arc, what is that? i may break it and replace it i dont know i may just ride the heck out of it and if she busts i build the next one a little better. as i stated before i think these bikes are old and noisy any way .

How can I check it without taking the engine apart or breaking the chain? Is that possible?

measure between links for stretch;)

I'm dealing with a cam chain noise in my warrior. Its been clackin around for years. Chain looks good but the front guide is worn so bad that I had to advance the cam one tooth and welded a tab on the tensioner to extend the arm furture. Its a lot quieter now, but you can still hear the chain hit the case. I have plans of .02 over piston kit tensioner and guides in the future. But that can wait I saving for gpz parts.