Popping/Coughing noise from 1 cylinder (w/ video)

Click > www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=152

May use only the "bat wing" and completely disregard the knob-ended lever.

Good Fortune!

Is the knob ended lever is supposed to be to hold the bucket down?

And the "bat wing" to pry the shim off?

Answered my own question with a trip to the motion pro site.
www.motionpro.com/documents/pdf/ar820_08-0019web.pdf

It seems like Tek9ine's solution doesn't require any special tool (other than a zip tie).

Topper wrote:

It seems like Tek9ine's solution doesn't require any special tool (other than a zip tie).

Thats right! Dont waste your money. You can use the zip tie on any model bike you like :laugh:

Enjoy.

Topper wrote:

Well that's not in the manual! Sounds like a great tip though.

One question. Which end of the zip tie am I inserting into the plug hole? I'm thinking the flat end, not the one with the box right?

Read my directions carefully damnit! :laugh: :woohoo:

The folded over end. You fold the tie in half and crush that fold flat, then just bend it slightly so it can reach behind the valve.

Good luck.

TeK9iNe wrote:

Topper wrote:

Well that's not in the manual! Sounds like a great tip though.

One question. Which end of the zip tie am I inserting into the plug hole? I'm thinking the flat end, not the one with the box right?

Read my directions carefully damnit! :laugh: :woohoo:

The folded over end. You fold the tie in half and crush that fold flat, then just bend it slightly so it can reach behind the valve.

Good luck.

What.... :laugh: No hammer

TeK9iNe wrote:

NO! You cant do it with a flat head screw driver! :laugh: Sorry... just dont want you to @#%&! your bike.

Here's what ya do. The cheap and easy way.

17mm socket and wrench
Large zip tie
Feeler gauge
New shims
All plugs removed
A small pick tool, preferably metal - to pop the shims out. They are usually suctioned into place by the oil underneath.

OK, so you've measuerd the gap and know what shim you want to replace, good.

Roll the crank forward with your 17mm over the large nut behind the ignition side cover, till the lobe comes down and pushes the valve your doing right down.

Now bend the ziptie in half in the middle. Crush it flat at the bend with some plyers. Make a small bend 45 degrees about 1cm from the end of the bend.

Stick the upward bent zippy into the plug hole and up behind the valve you just pushed into the cylinder. You can feel the valve stem, just stop there and hold it in place.

Simultaneously - roll back the crank to let the valve travel back up, except the zippy will stop the valve form travelling all the way up!

Keep rolling the crank back and there will be considerably more gap under the cam lobe - just enough to pick out your shim and change.

Change the shim, then reverse the steps - roll cam forward till zippy is loose - remove zippy. Then keep rolling cam forward to the next shim change.

One more tidbit - spin the bucket so that the small opening to wedge out the shim is where you want it before you compress the valve.

Hope this helped :laugh:

You'll be a shim changing expert in no time!

yeah its right there in the book! :woohoo:
and yes i use a straight screwdriver with a bent handle! :laugh:

TeK9iNe wrote:

You fold the tie in half and crush that fold flat, then just bend it slightly so it can reach behind the valve.

This worked perfectly for removing the shims. One of them has the thickness clearly printed on it (250) But unfortunately the other does not. It must have been worn off. I'll have to figure it out via trial and error I guess.

buy a cheap micrometer at the hardware store

were intake shims really loose by any chance?
if intakes were really loose id say maybe try swapping with exhuast shims,if not youre back to buying parts

Definitely have to buy some parts. Called the nearest motorcycle shop which is 45 minutes away. They said they had 32mm diameter shims for me. Drove all the way to town, the biggest shims they had were 29mm diameter.

They're nice guys so I won't hold it against them. They also measured the thickness of the shim with nothing printed on it for me. It's a 250 just like the other one I need to replace.

I was hoping I wouldn't have to wait for shipping, but I guess I'll be ordering online.

Two questions:

Z1 shows as out of stock for sizes in the range I need. Who else sells 32mm shims?

Also, should I aim for one end or the other of the spec range? Spec is for a .05-.10 gap.

I've got esentially no clearance on two of my valves. A 240 would put me at about .1 and a 245 would put me at about .05

Does it matter?

I try to be around .075 or a little more for intake, and .1 for exhaust.

If you use a micrometer like recommended, you will find that the shim sizes never actually match the printed size, especially used ones.

I you put the valve gap at the tightest clearance possible, guess what? You'll be in there real soon to make some more clearance...

Good luck.