Cracks in case

I went back to Fee-Bay and found a complete set 60 miles north of me. I made an offer. Should know something by Monday afternoon.

Now, what could have caused it? Could there be something out of kilter with my crank?

TomW wrote:

I went back to Fee-Bay and found a complete set 60 miles north of me. I made an offer. Should know something by Monday afternoon.

Now, what could have caused it? Could there be something out of kilter with my crank?

check you PM's

Reply sent, Larry. That tiny little PM icon is too small for my old eyes. :S

TomW wrote:

It's my understanding that the cases are machined as a set, top and bottom together. What are the odds of a '74 900 Z-1 matching up to a '78 KZ1000? The price is attractive tho. Thanks for the link. I'll send a question to the seller to see if he has the bottom half.

How 'bout them Badgers :woohoo:

yeah thats from an early set of cases,but no bottem half? :S
id give $25 for what hes got there and hang it on my garage wall!

I would suggest buying new pins. I have rebuilt my share of Kaw motors. Never have I found such damage. I might think the pins used were not right and when FORCED into the hold caused the damage seen.

I would NOT suggest repairs be done on this black.

PLUMMEN wrote:

TomW wrote:

It's my understanding that the cases are machined as a set, top and bottom together. What are the odds of a '74 900 Z-1 matching up to a '78 KZ1000? The price is attractive tho. Thanks for the link. I'll send a question to the seller to see if he has the bottom half.

How 'bout them Badgers :woohoo:

yeah thats from an early set of cases,but no bottem half? :S
id give $25 for what hes got there and hang it on my garage wall!

Pretty sure if you dig through the photos there is a pic of the bottom half too, I thought. Yep, yer right, top half only. My bad.

i went through them again all i see is a top,no big deal.
id still glass bead it and hang it on the wall

I'll lay $50:1 Otto's got a chemical that will fuse that case back together in about 30 seconds :woohoo:

Just pickin at you Otto

While searching for aluminum welding I came across a site pitching an aluminum brazing rod called HTS 2000, I think. They had a video of someone make a butt joint and testing it to destruction. The joint held. Pretty impressive but I'm a skeptic at heart. I thought maybe build up the broken out piece, machine it flush and when reassembling the bottom end squirt some Loctite 620 on those bearing races so the races couldn't move side ways to break out the pins again. But with the availability of cases as good as it is, I'm going for piece of mind and replacing them.

While looking further at the case trying to figure out what went wrong I saw this damage to another web. The one next to the oil pump drive gear. The gear ate at the corner of the web. The pic isn't real clear but you can see the groove on the near side. It also has a burr above the surface of the bearing seat. Also I found 2 different types of sealant at the edges of the cases. A dark brown sealant and a light tan colored one. I think the brown was original. So it seems someone has been in there before me. Anyone have experience with this?

hey the proper term is "OTTO-TIVE" tm/pat pend :woohoo:

TomW wrote:

While searching for aluminum welding I came across a site pitching an aluminum brazing rod called HTS 2000, I think. They had a video of someone make a butt joint and testing it to destruction. The joint held. Pretty impressive but I'm a skeptic at heart. I thought maybe build up the broken out piece, machine it flush and when reassembling the bottom end squirt some Loctite 620 on those bearing races so the races couldn't move side ways to break out the pins again. But with the availability of cases as good as it is, I'm going for piece of mind and replacing them.

While looking further at the case trying to figure out what went wrong I saw this damage to another web. The one next to the oil pump drive gear. The gear ate at the corner of the web. The pic isn't real clear but you can see the groove on the near side. It also has a burr above the surface of the bearing seat. Also I found 2 different types of sealant at the edges of the cases. A dark brown sealant and a light tan colored one. I think the brown was original. So it seems someone has been in there before me. Anyone have experience with this?

A year ago I tried some rod that's similar. It wasn't an good. A friend let is pressure washer freeze up and broke the pot metal pump housing.

When I tried to weld it up with that rod, it wouldn't flow properly. I did manage to fuse the pieces back together but it' didn't hold for long.

What I was told by someone that is a professional welder is those types of rods have a shelf life. The stuff I used was old.... That might have been the reason it didn't flow well... Who knows :laugh:

TomW wrote:

While searching for aluminum welding I came across a site pitching an aluminum brazing rod called HTS 2000, I think. They had a video of someone make a butt joint and testing it to destruction. The joint held. Pretty impressive but I'm a skeptic at heart. I thought maybe build up the broken out piece, machine it flush and when reassembling the bottom end squirt some Loctite 620 on those bearing races so the races couldn't move side ways to break out the pins again. But with the availability of cases as good as it is, I'm going for piece of mind and replacing them.

While looking further at the case trying to figure out what went wrong I saw this damage to another web. The one next to the oil pump drive gear. The gear ate at the corner of the web. The pic isn't real clear but you can see the groove on the near side. It also has a burr above the surface of the bearing seat. Also I found 2 different types of sealant at the edges of the cases. A dark brown sealant and a light tan colored one. I think the brown was original. So it seems someone has been in there before me. Anyone have experience with this?

id check the crank/bearings before reinstalling