KZ porn!

You haven't done the impact gun trick why? It only tells you to remove it that way in the service manual. I wouldn't pull on that gear unless you want to buy a new one of those too. If the flywheel is that stuck, then at best you'll bend the gear in the process of pulling it off, and at worst you break the gear and still don't get it off. I'm not the only one telling you to do this.

Well, actually it doesn't say to use an impact wrench in the manual, but I am going to use it tomorrow. I went to buy the air gun and walked into a sale on gear pullers before I got to the air tools. I figured for 10 dollars I could give it a shot, and if it worked I would keep it. I am returning it tomorrow when I go back into town, and I will get a bolt and use my neighbors dewalt impact driver. My steering bolt is a little bit too small unfortunately. If all else fails (which I would not be surprised at at this point) I will load up the bottom end into the truck and head to the kawi dealer and ask them to do it for me with the proper tool.

Depends on both your Dealer, and how easy he gets that to come off, might be your cheapest option, possibly free if it just pops off. Then you can say "I must of loosened it".

If it's an 81 motor, those rotors had spinning issues sometimes. It might be scored up inside and it might even have red or green loctite on the taper.

How many Cuban cigars = the cost of the right puller :laugh:

Don't be pulling on the starter clutch gear whatever you do

The special factory tool #5 shown below is imo inferior to the diy methods already suggested.

Dealer tech will likely use an impact driver or air wrench plus maybe some heat and a hammer.

Please refresh memory as to why rotor needs removing.

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

Your high on Cuban's yourself Patton..... I have a factory tool that will take that rotor off in less time than you freaking guys take to type your "how to" do it with a rope & anvil methods... AND DO IT WITHOUT AN AIR IMPACT.... GUARANTEED!

WTF....It's a goddam rotor....not a trip to mars :laugh:

First thing I'd do in managing a shop would be to toss all the OEM tools the factory designed in favor of axles, ropes, harbor freight jaw pullers, etc., etc. etc.

WTF do you guys smoke all day along anyway :woohoo:

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I am trying to take the rotor off because I want to take everything off the motor blast the cases and have my crank and tranny looked at by a shop before I start putting it back together with go-fast stuff on it.

btw Larry, this is an 83 gpz motor.

9am53 wrote:

I am trying to take the rotor off because I want to take everything off the motor blast the cases and have my crank and tranny looked at by a shop before I start putting it back together with go-fast stuff on it.

btw Larry, this is an 83 gpz motor.

Shouldn't be a problem with any spinning then. Just don't hammer or pull on the starter clutch gear.

The problem you're having is because the axle is long and you're not getting leverage. If you have an old axle to sacrifice, cut it off 5" from the end of the thread.

Then weld the the two pieces together to form a T.

Lube the threads. Squirt some oil down in the rotor snout. That will help hydraulic the rotor as well. Thread the T shape puller into the rotor. Tighten it and wack the T handle with a dead blow mallet.

I remove every KZ rotor like that. They pop right off. I swear it takes less than 60 seconds from the time I screw in the T handle until the rotor is in my hands.

WORK SMART - NOT HARD

Sounds like we need a "Tool Loan Section"

Larry I don't know if it's a leverage thing, I had a long ass screwdriver through the hole in the end of the axle, and I literally could not budge it, and I'm a strong guy. I think like somebody mentioned there may be some loctite on it, or it has somehow stuck on there because it is being much harder than I imagined. I will try it tomorrow with the impact driver, and hopefully this BS will end then. There are many flywheel pullers on fleabay that would likely have the same tread as my axle and fit the rotor hole, so I will lick this yet, it's only september after all!

The leverage you think you're putting on it with a long screwdriver through the axle isn't as much as you might think it is.

It's the outright shock factor that's needed and you loose it through the length of the axle.

Example:

Take a 3/8 impact gun. Put a 12" extension on it with a socket on the extension. Tighten or loosen something.

Then remove the 12" extension and use just the socket on the impact. You'll see it is significantly more effective the shorter the length.

The shorter the shaft on the puller, the more twisting and shock force it can deliver.

I'll post a picture of the setup I use.