Header pipes: hot and cold?

Old Man Rock wrote:

Here's where the Colortune product would come in nicely for trouble shooting....

Or not. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Patton.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

You know this post got me thinking....

Clamp inductive pick ups to amplifier/volt meter inputs...
Measure good cyclinders @ idle and 4Krpm...
Then test again non firing/cold cylinders...
Compare measurements....

Here's what this informs us of...
1) The cylinder is firing Y/N?
No measurement/extreme low means no current flow....
2) Is it conducting to the same current/Voltage potential?

Hmmm, me wonder now.... Would be easy to design/build a milli volt amplifier... Use Old/cheap timing light clamp....

Same time, Fluke already makes a clamp inductive unit for DVM's... so probably easier going this route...

Got up bright and early to go through the bike ...

Cylinders: DEFINITELY compression is good on all four. The "thumb test" got a definite loud hiss and my thumb was pumped right off the plug hole on all four cylinders.

I have a few KZ bikes so i have switched out the coils/caps with a new ignition from another KZ650 this a.m. to see how that goes.

Also, I plan to rig up a test fuel tank, fill the carbs, then drain them to see how much fuel is getting to each one. If they are all filling, i'll hook up a gauge and check the carb balance.

Right now i am thinking when I rebuilt the carbs i flubbed a step or just plain screwed up the bench sync.

It did run and run fairly smoothly and rev nicely before i started all these checks. So I am of the opinion it isn't something catastrophic just i need to double-check some of my work.

I'd do the clear tube method right away to ensure you are getting the proper fuel height. Measuring the amount of fuel in each carb may be a way to compare, but who is to say that #3 and #4 levels are correct either? Also, the small changes in fuel height might not be very obvious when trying to measure the volume you get by draining them, but have a large impact on how it runs.

BTW, This past weekend I had the same issue on my #2 cylinder. (the colortune showed this to me!) The pilots were clean and the float level was spot on.... Turns out the rubber manifold between the carb and head was leaking a little. So I pulled it off, scraped off the old gasket maker, got some gas resistant gasket maker, threw it back together and now have four idling cylinders.

I just thought of something.... If you choke the bike, does #1 and #2 fire? If you had an air leak or low float height I would think choking it would make them fire. If the pilots were plugged, it might not make a difference.