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cam chain tensioner rebuild ???
- TeK9iNe
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- What did you do!?!
09 Jul 2010 14:13 #381301
by TeK9iNe
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
Replied by TeK9iNe on topic cam chain tensioner rebuild ???
I'm sorry Patton, that is just not enough info... 
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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- gcarson64
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09 Jul 2010 19:51 #381383
by gcarson64
1980 kz550 38,500 miles basket case ( soon to be a BOBBER )
1983 kz550 9,600 miles
1988 jeep grand wagoneer 144,500 miles 4 mpg
Replied by gcarson64 on topic cam chain tensioner rebuild ???
thanks guys, i would not be able to do this without the help of you. the clymer manual stinks 
1980 kz550 38,500 miles basket case ( soon to be a BOBBER )
1983 kz550 9,600 miles
1988 jeep grand wagoneer 144,500 miles 4 mpg
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- gcarson64
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- Patton
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- KZr Legend
09 Jul 2010 20:39 - 09 Jul 2010 20:43 #381388
by Patton
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic cam chain tensioner rebuild ???
gcarson64 wrote:
this should be the last question --- Heaven Forbid! :laugh:
My experience is with Z1 and KZ900, which have an earlier style tension adjuster that's manually loosened to allow an internal spring to set correct pressure against cam chain, and is then re-tightened into position. To which the following applies:
Until receiving more certain advice as to camchain tensioner adjustment procedure on 1983 KZ550, would always turn it clockwise (forward) in direction of normal running engine crankshaft rotation (same way as wheels turn when bike is rolling forward).
Don't turn it backward. If go past the T mark, keep going all the way around until the T mark appears again. This assures most slack at rear run of cam chain where the adjustment rod pushes toward the chain to take up slack.
Easier to remove the spark plugs beforehand to eliminate working against normal engine compression while hand turning the crankshaft. Facilitates aligning the T mark.
Also better if engine is warm, to maximize flexibility of cam chain. And kick engine over a couple of times before setting it at TDC.
If desired, can use a short length of rubber tube for final removal of hot spark plugs without burning fingers. Same for starting hot plugs into holes when replacing plugs. (Also a good method for roadside plug readings during throttle chop testing.)
The diagram below is 1983 KZ550 camchain component as shown by kawasaki.com.
Good Fortune!
[Click on image to enlarge view.]
1 last question. that i do not beleive was mentioned. which way do you turn the engine. clockwise or counterclockwise. thanks. and this should be the last question.
this should be the last question --- Heaven Forbid! :laugh:
My experience is with Z1 and KZ900, which have an earlier style tension adjuster that's manually loosened to allow an internal spring to set correct pressure against cam chain, and is then re-tightened into position. To which the following applies:
Until receiving more certain advice as to camchain tensioner adjustment procedure on 1983 KZ550, would always turn it clockwise (forward) in direction of normal running engine crankshaft rotation (same way as wheels turn when bike is rolling forward).
Don't turn it backward. If go past the T mark, keep going all the way around until the T mark appears again. This assures most slack at rear run of cam chain where the adjustment rod pushes toward the chain to take up slack.
Easier to remove the spark plugs beforehand to eliminate working against normal engine compression while hand turning the crankshaft. Facilitates aligning the T mark.
Also better if engine is warm, to maximize flexibility of cam chain. And kick engine over a couple of times before setting it at TDC.
If desired, can use a short length of rubber tube for final removal of hot spark plugs without burning fingers. Same for starting hot plugs into holes when replacing plugs. (Also a good method for roadside plug readings during throttle chop testing.)
The diagram below is 1983 KZ550 camchain component as shown by kawasaki.com.
Good Fortune!
[Click on image to enlarge view.]
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Attachments:
Last edit: 09 Jul 2010 20:43 by Patton.
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- 650ed
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10 Jul 2010 06:02 #381444
by 650ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Replied by 650ed on topic cam chain tensioner rebuild ???
Lots of tips, but here's the best tip:
Put the Clymer manual in the outhouse for emergency use and get a Kawasaki factory service manual.
Put the Clymer manual in the outhouse for emergency use and get a Kawasaki factory service manual.
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- otakar
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10 Jul 2010 06:31 - 10 Jul 2010 06:34 #381449
by otakar
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
Replied by otakar on topic cam chain tensioner rebuild ???
No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration650ed wrote:
I concur.
Lots of tips, but here's the best tip:
Put the Clymer manual in the outhouse for emergency use and get a Kawasaki factory service manual.
I concur.
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
Last edit: 10 Jul 2010 06:34 by otakar.
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