adjusting cam tensioner

Can some one tell me the way to adjust the cam chain tensioner?

that would be on a kz 900 76 mdl.

lemo32... read the sticky at the top of the engine section... says it really helps to put your bike model/year and where you live in your signature. The reason? Bike models have different parts and it isn't easy to answer your question without knowing this info. This note could have been avoided if you have this info in your sig... you don't have to remember to type it when you want the answer to a question. Thanks!

Great! You caught the idea before I had finished my whining... stick it in your signature!

OK... 76 KZ900 has a MANUAL tensioner. The advantage with a manual is the pushrod is a shade longer meaning it can tension a stretched chain for a longer period of time... The downside is some routine maintenance. If you hear some rattling... it is time. You should tension it about every month, I guess. I am sure someone with a manual can tell you how many miles. At least at every oil change.

OK... there is a bolt on the side of the tensioner. It is a 6mm bolt (use 10mm socket on it). First, loosen the locknut on this bolt. Back the bolt out some. If it comes out all the way it makes no harm. The book likely says to turn the engine over a couple times using the 17mm nut on the end of the crank... I hit the starter with the coils unplugged. This finds the slackest part of the chain and the tension, which is spring loaded will go out to the max required for the loosest part of the chain.

Hook up the coils and tighten the bolt then the locknut. That is about it... I will say, one more thing as a caution. The rod inside has a flat spot for seating the bolt that holds it. At the flat spot rear is a somewhat curved area that tends to score the innards of the tensioner body. When it does, the rod can hang. Make sure when you back the locking bolt out, you feel a sort of snap... that is, you feel the rod pop out. If it doesn't, get suspicious of the rod hanging...

To remove the tensioner, you remove the two bolts that hold it. There is a gasket but it doesn't tend to leak much if reused. If you do take it out, you can pull the spring off the rod and stretch it some to give it a bit more pop...

Thanks!!

Personally,I wouldn't use the starter to turn the engine over with the cam chain adjuster bolt loosened off...with all that slack in Your timing chain now,You risk it jumping more than one tooth,and You could end up having a valve kissing a piston.I've got personal experience with this happening and trust Me...it was costly and very time consuming.The entire top end had to come off and I had to replace 2 valves that got bent.

I agree with Sandy. Once the bolt is loose, never turn the engine over even manually or you risk damage. The right way to do it is to turn the engine over with your 17mm socket just past the cyl #2-3 timing marks you'll see a flat cutout on the timing plate. Right when the timing plate changes from round to flat you stop precisely at that "point". Loosen your lock nut, then the bolt on the side of the tensioner, then retighten and you're all done. Once every 5000 miles or so.

Is the process the same for a 440? Anyone know?

Sandy wrote:

Personally,I wouldn't use the starter to turn the engine over with the cam chain adjuster bolt loosened off...with all that slack in Your timing chain now,You risk it jumping more than one tooth,and You could end up having a valve kissing a piston.I've got personal experience with this happening and trust Me...it was costly and very time consuming.The entire top end had to come off and I had to replace 2 valves that got bent.

Yep, I had the same experience on a 77 KZ1000 a long time ago, an expensive lesson that I have never forgot

Sputnic81 wrote:

Is the process the same for a 440? Anyone know?

Sputnic...I have no idea of what the process is on the 440,Bud...but I'm sure Someone will jump in and assist You.
If not right away...give it a bit and start a seperate post if need be.

Sputnic81 wrote:

Is the process the same for a 440? Anyone know?

www.kz400.com/

will this work as well for a kz750E2 ?

Seems like the directions are explaining the same for mine, im doing it now and studying up a bit first.