I need kz900 valve shims

Hi folks, I'm looking for a set of the following shims to do a valve adjustment.

- I need 8 shims that are either 2.0, 2.05, 2.10, or 2.15

- then I need 8 other shims that are 1 or 2 steps thicker than what I'm able to find in the 1st set of 8 shims

In other words, if I can find eight shims that are 2.05, I will then want another eight shims that are 2.10 or 2.15.

Another scenario would be this: say I find eight shims that are 2.10 -- I then want another eight shims that are 2.15 or 2.20.

AND HERE'S THE REASON for buying 2 sets of 8 shims.

Prior owner of my kz900 put all the shims back in the wrong order while doing a 'do-it-yourself' valve adjustment. And this kz900 is not the only Kaw kz900/1000 that I own, so I'll need this set in the future I'm sure.

So my plan to get the valves shimmed up correctly on my kz900 is to

1) remove all the shims (they're all wrong right now)
2) install what I call a "baseline set" of very thin shims
3) measure the gaps then I'll know the correct size to get for the proper gap adjustment, and use the 2nd set to go to a sligtly thicker baseline if needed

So the plan is to start with the thinnest shims and work up from that baseline.

WHERE CAN I FIND CHEAP SHIMS ?! Not on ebay, the only source is Johnnys Vintage and he wants $20 per shim with shipping.

There's gotta be a cheap source for these things somewhere!

I can't get this beast running till I work out this valve adjustment problem, anyone know of a source for *affordable* shims?

you wont need that many 2.00 shims just one and move it from valve to valve until you get it figured out. that would save you a ton of money and lots of agrivation

Z1E has shims $5.28 Each I traded a guy a bunch of shims a few months ago but it wound up being a one way trade. After I sent out the shims paying the postage, i never saw another shim in return. That was the demise of the "shim trading post"

www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=KPEN1B

otto, you got yours from me didn't you?

Yours I got for the 13mm trade. The ones I got stiffed on was from KLD (Casey Opperman) in Nebraska. That was myself and Keith1 that got stiffed by him. It's been 40 days since he last dared to show his face here.

otakar wrote:

Yours I got for the 13mm trade. The ones I got stiffed on was from KLD (Casey Opperman) in Nebraska. That was myself and Keith1 that got stiffed by him. It's been 40 days since he last dared to show his face here.

Sorry to hear that...that was a great idea and all it takes is one fellow to screw it up for everyone

timebomb33 wrote:

you wont need that many 2.00 shims just one and move it from valve to valve until you get it figured out. that would save you a ton of money and lots of agrivation

You're right, however I have a 2nd objective, and that is to eliminate the potentially too-thick shims as the source of the problem for low compression after the prior owner got the shims mixed up.

I want to be able to do a quick ONE-TWO-THREE-FOUR compression test with the thinnest shims possible all installed.

If I only start with, say, two really thin 'test' shims, then I have to install the 2 thin 'test' shims in #1, do the compression test on #1, then take the thin 'test' shims out of #1 and put them in #2, do the compression test on #2, then remove the thin 'test' shims from #2 and install them in #3, do the compression test on #3, ETC.

Eyedruther remove all the mixed shims one time, install thin test shims everywhere one time, then do the compression tests real easy in a row, ONE-TWO-THREE-FOUR.
Then (hopefully) find out the compression is fine. Then measure the shim-to-cam-lobe gaps, and install the right shims in the right place, because I am pretty sure I already have those! They're just installed in the wrong spot. Having all of them removed and ready to be installed to the right spot saves me 'hunting' time, as in 'hey, intake on #1 needs a 265 shim, now where did the prior owner install that shim in the valve train here.'

Now I did not even mention my 2nd objective about eliminating the improper shimming as the source of compression problems (valves staying open due to overly-thick shims), so that was my mistake in my opening post, sorry about that.

This 2nd objective is important because I am concerned about the compression issue, and if I find out that the mixed-up shims were the problem, I won't waste time yanking the head.

then just pull the cams and hold the cam chain up and roll the engine around to tdc on each hole and do a leak down test that way the shims won't even come into play.

I don't know how to do a leakdown test, never done one before. Would I just use the compression tester? How do you do a leakdown test?

if your in the states harbour freight sells them cheap and if your in canada princess auto actually you should be able to get them from lots of auto parts places as well real handy and very simple to use and way more accurate then a compression gauge they will all come with complete instructions. the only other thing you will need is a source of compressed air. regulated to 100 lbs orless.

timebomb33 wrote:

if your in the states harbour freight sells them cheap and if your in canada princess auto actually you should be able to get them from lots of auto parts places as well real handy and very simple to use and way more accurate then a compression gauge they will all come with complete instructions. the only other thing you will need is a source of compressed air. regulated to 100 lbs orless.

What is the 'them ' here, I'm 20 minutes away from a Harbor Freight store, what's the name of the tool used for a 'leakdown test' ? I just searched the HF website, first I searched on 'leakdown tester,' then I searched on 'leakdown', and there was nothing coming back -- what would the name of the leakdown testing tool be?

part number (bottom left) & price... can't go wrong...
The procedure is on the right...

OMR