- Posts: 323
- Thank you received: 6
Ring gap question
- fordtruck
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
I was poking around on MTC's website and they say to put the oil ring rails inline with the wrist pin and to put the expander gap towards the front. The Clymer made no mention of where to put the expander gap. Is this critical? Where should I put the rail gaps at? Or does it really matter?
'77 KZ1000-MTC 1075 kit. Stage 1 port
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Skyman
- Offline
- User
- 1978 KZ1000-B2 LTD 1982 KZ1000-M2 CSR
- Posts: 913
- Thank you received: 3
West Linn, OR
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- BSKZ650
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 2064
- Thank you received: 14
77 kz650, owned for over 25 years
77 ltd1000, current rider
76 kz900, just waiting
73 z1,, gonna restore this one
piglet, leggero harley davidson
SR, Ride captian, S.E.Texas Patriot Guard Riders.. AKA KawaBob
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Skyman
- Offline
- User
- 1978 KZ1000-B2 LTD 1982 KZ1000-M2 CSR
- Posts: 913
- Thank you received: 3
...just make sure you dont brake any rings when you install them
And be VERY careful to make sure that the oil expander ends aren't overlapped. It's very easy to miss if you're not careful.
Don't ask me how I know. :blush:
West Linn, OR
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- fordtruck
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 323
- Thank you received: 6
I thought it was odd the shop manual makes no mention of where to put the expander gap. I'll probably go ahead and put the expander gap towards the front.
Thanks!
'77 KZ1000-MTC 1075 kit. Stage 1 port
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- trianglelaguna
- Offline
- User
- New and improved - extra strength
- Posts: 8726
- Thank you received: 235
1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- fordtruck
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 323
- Thank you received: 6
Did you put your cylinder on by yourself or did you have help? My dad is coming over Saturday to help me drop it on. I figure dropping the block over the pistons will be the hardest part of this build. I've never done it before and I've heard some people say it's easy, and others say it's tricky.
'77 KZ1000-MTC 1075 kit. Stage 1 port
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- trianglelaguna
- Offline
- User
- New and improved - extra strength
- Posts: 8726
- Thank you received: 235
1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- BSKZ650
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 2064
- Thank you received: 14
77 kz650, owned for over 25 years
77 ltd1000, current rider
76 kz900, just waiting
73 z1,, gonna restore this one
piglet, leggero harley davidson
SR, Ride captian, S.E.Texas Patriot Guard Riders.. AKA KawaBob
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Patton
- Offline
- KZr Legend
- Posts: 18640
- Thank you received: 2098
stever wrote:
Put the barrels on at the weekend its a 1075 kit so the bore had taken most of the chamfer off the bottom of the barrels. I dont have a ring compressor!
Put assembly grease on the rings and in the bore then cut a 1 inch wide strip of plastic off an old pets dring bottle long enough to wrap round the rings cut small tabs at the top and bent it back so the plastic would get carried down as i pushed the barrels down. I then used plastic cable ties to wrap round the plastic and compress the rings, slid the barrels on and the pistons just went straight in with no problems at all.
I figured by using plastic I could not scratch the pistons or any thing.
Once the pistons were in I just cut the cable ties and pulled the plastic off.
It only took a few minutes and cost nothing.
Just thought someone else might find this usefull.
Popcycle sticks could also be useful (but consensus isn't unanimous -- ask nads).
And allowing top ring land to remain slightly exposed beyond "whatever" clamp should help piston align when entering the sleeve.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Link14
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 575
- Thank you received: 6
And allowing top ring land to remain slightly exposed beyond "whatever" clamp should help piston align when entering the sleeve.
As I'm getting within a month of putting my engine back together, I've been paying close attention to the reassembly threads. Patton - I don't quite understand the above quote....could you elaborate?
Thanks!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Patton
- Offline
- KZr Legend
- Posts: 18640
- Thank you received: 2098
Patton wrote:
And allowing top ring land to remain slightly exposed beyond "whatever" clamp should help piston align when entering the sleeve.
As I'm getting within a month of putting my engine back together, I've been paying close attention to the reassembly threads. Patton - I don't quite understand the above quote....could you elaborate?
Thanks!
See this earlier thread
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...d=2&id=336135#336242
where larrycaven says it much better
Install hose clamps so the top ring land is above the clamp. That gives the sleeve something to get hold of so the block starts down properly without rocking the piston all over.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.