I would still check the compression. This is always a baseline troubleshooting step. An inexpensive compression gauge is one that has a rubber tip that press fits into the spark plug opening. You just turn the engine over with all plugs removed and throttle wide open. The gauge will peak up and show pounds per square inches of pressure. This will tell you if you have ring problems or hanging valves once you have taken the measurement especially if you repeat the test with a few drops of oil in each cylinder. ONLY do one cylinder at a time else the oil will shoot up all over your ceiling. In any case, about a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder will seal the rings if they are a source of compression leak and compression will jump up greatly. You can also get a "leak down" test which is done with air pressure. The source of air leaking will pin point any compression loss but this should be done only after a normal compression test.
Once you have determined there is no compression issues, you should follow with the valve adjustment. I personally would invest in a shop manual and do the adjustment myself. This is a routine maintenance item and while it is tedious, it is simple to do and the only cost will be a supply of shims and a shim tool in the event your bike's shims are above bucket and not below.
Contact
www.z1enterprises.com about parts. I believe they ship overseas and the owner, who lives in New York, is a Brit. He speaks Brit decently bwhahaha The parts might just be less expensive even though shipping might be a tad more.
Contact Lorcan, as he is technically astute and has a very informative web site. He knows FI and will probably be a better source of information re your bike than will be a local Kawasaki dealership.