Milky oil sight glass...

KZCSI wrote:

If you feel the need to spread oil over your cams and cylinder walls find a way to crank the engine without the ignition, thirty seconds ought to do it.

pull the plug wires off;)

KZCSI wrote:

Air Cooled engines have a disproportionally large oil capacities. Additionally unitary motorcycles have transmissions that are lubricated with engine oil. I've found that it takes more than a few miles to get the oil hot. The result is that even after the engine is up to temp the transmission and the oil are somewhere behind the curve.

I really don't like to hear an owner say "I keep it in the shed and start it up every two weeks..." That theory will not only result in moisture in the oil but will certainly allow condensation under the valve cover.

If someone askes to hear one of my bikes, I first decide if I'm prepared to start it up and run it twenty or so miles before I put it up. If not, I just say " I'd rather not".

I've never seen a milky sight glass that thirty minutes of spirited riding wouldn't cure. If you feel the need to spread oil over your cams and cylinder walls find a way to crank the engine without the ignition, thirty seconds ought to do it.

KZCSI<br><br>Post edited by: KZCSI, at: 2006/03/07 22:39

Hmmmm, interesting, but I don't really agree. I think it's far more beneficial to at least start the engine once a month if you are storing it than let it sit. Especially if you live in a moist climate. Just my take on it though.

I hope this helps before I used to leave the oil in the engine and start it up every week. and I did notice my sight glass showing the oil to be tanish color almost milky. Till I read that you are suppose to change the oil before letting it sit. The reason is the contaminents in the oil harden seals and can actually allow the metal in the engine to rust. The instructions were after changing the oil, do not run it not even crank it over, just to let it sit with the new oil in it. I have not had a reacurence of milky coloring, and starting it was easier too, but I did rejet it the season before so that probobly helped the starting part.

Snakebyte wrote:

I hope this helps before I used to leave the oil in the engine and start it up every week. and I did notice my sight glass showing the oil to be tanish color almost milky. Till I read that you are suppose to change the oil before letting it sit. The reason is the contaminents in the oil harden seals and can actually allow the metal in the engine to rust. The instructions were after changing the oil, do not run it not even crank it over, just to let it sit with the new oil in it. I have not had a reacurence of milky coloring, and starting it was easier too, but I did rejet it the season before so that probobly helped the starting part.

Now I can agree with that. If you are storing it for a long time (4+ months). Definitely change the oil first. Old oil has all kinds of acids and contaminants that are bad for your engine.

Hey Saved,
I couldn't imagine that rain water could get into your engine unless it's finding it's way into a vacuum tube somewhere.
In any case, your statement gives it away. "The sight glass had a film on it while the oil itself was clear". Not an exact quote, but close, I think. If the rain was getting into your engine it would end up emulsified with the oil similar to a leaking head on a water cooled bike. Now if for whatever reason, your oil isn't getting hot enough to completly drive off the condensation that naturally occurs. It would end up accumulating on the sight glass. If you're riding fourteen miles each way, I'd put my money on your oil cooler working too well. Do any oil coolers come with thermostatic valves?

As far as the warm fuzzies some guys get from hearing their bikes run for a few minutes every month during the winter. I think they're causing more harm than good. It'd be better to crank the bike with the coils disconnected ( primary side ) till you saw oil pressure.

It'd give your battery tender something to do as well.

Regards
Bill

Yeah, the oil cooler was already on my bike when I got it. I'm not wild about it after hearing several discussions on them. Maybe one day I will ditch it. However, I do live in SoCal and the summer months can be wicked hot...

What oil are you guys running?
Valvoline car oil? or something like Bel-Ray motorcycle oil?

Hey Saved, I would put a piece of cardboard or plastic in front of the oil-cooler when it's lower than 60 degrees. That'll get the engine oil up a couple degrees.

NebrMotoPartsInc wrote:

What oil are you guys running?
Valvoline car oil? or something like Bel-Ray motorcycle oil?

If I recall correctly the last time I changed it I used Mobil 5000 10-40.

Hey NebrMotoPartsInc,
I'm running synthetic oil. I don't think that the type of oil could have much to do with condensation caused by short run sessions.
What'd you think?

Bill

No matter what oil your running, Your engine is going to heat and cool creating condensation.

ok..... here is what i have come accross working in my shop for 10 years:
car oil is not meant to run in a transmission or a clutch.
the clutch is made of esbestose or on performace clutch usually kevlar or carbon fiber.
the oil you use soaks into that clutch. that oil isnt formulated for that and can make the clutch slip (depending on the brand and additives).
but that isn't here nor there. it isnt the problem.
the rest of the engine is spinning...... fast..... very fast!
these motors can spin up to 10,000 RPM's +! the new sport bike engines can spin 15,000 RPM's!!!!!
the motorcycle oils will have additives and properties that will allow the oil to not break down as quikly.
i have seen our mechanic change oil in plenty of bikes and the oil comes out like water!!!! it is this milky color you speek of also. what was used? car oil!
these motors shreds that oil and kills all lubricating properties.
car oil is great..... for cars.
there is a reason why motorcycle oil is $5 a quart.

This is all my experience! I have seen it with my own eyes!

if you disagree with me, i am sorry... just throw a rock at my head :S