Cam cap bolt torque?

Ed,

In this case the bolt wasn't seized, but really well staked!!!! I wish they could have had blue thread locker back then!

I'll add that oil can to my garage pantry, it's always a good idea to have multiple ways to deal with this things.

Ah yes! I ran into a "well staked" set screw on a tool I was disassembling once. I think King Kong must have staked it! You're right, there is no liquid that will un-stake a screw. :laugh: Ed

650ed wrote: I'm glad to see you now have access to an inch pounds torque wrench. That should prove to be far more accurate than the other wrench at the specified torque.

But as Ed pointed out... what's the range max? I have an inch-pound wrench that is full scale 600 I-P which would be a terrible choice for a bolt that needed to be torqued to 100 IP. I also have a 200 I-P max torque wrench that I use for such jobs.

As somebody already said: below maybe 25% of full scale? You are really taking your chances.

650ed wrote: I'm glad to see you now have access to an inch pounds torque wrench. That should prove to be far more accurate than the other wrench at the specified torque.

Regarding stuck bolts, I have had outstanding success using Kroil to break the bond between the bolts whatever they are threaded into. When I find one that is stubborn I soak it for 2 or 3days with Kroil, re-applying once or twice a day, and then they unscrew with no difficulty. It has saved my butt at least 5 times so far. Here's the stuff I use. Let me know if you need help finding it. Ed

Attachment Kroil_2014-08-25.jpg not found

Great stuff. It penetrates so well we use it to clean gun barrels because it will get under copper fouling in the bore.

I won't use the 6mm bolts to pull the cams and caps down...never, ever again. Using short Bessey Tradesman clamps on all four cam-caps to seat them before putting any bolts in, I will not remove them until each bolt has been very-gently torqued to spec. There is a nice opening in the J-engine head casting (directly below each cap location) to slip the fixed end of a clamp into, like it was designed for this purpose.
In my opinion, once the fine aluminum threads have been stressed, they're done.:pinch:

daveo wrote: I won't use the 6mm bolts to pull the cams and caps down...never, ever again. Using short Bessey Tradesman clamps on all four cam-caps to seat them before putting any bolts in, I will not remove them until each bolt has been very-gently torqued to spec. There is a nice opening in the J-engine head casting (directly below each cap location) to slip the fixed end of a clamp into, like it was designed for this purpose.
In my opinion, once the fine aluminum threads have been stressed, they're done.:pinch:

Perfect!....

daveo wrote: I won't use the 6mm bolts to pull the cams and caps down...never, ever again. Using short Bessey Tradesman clamps on all four cam-caps to seat them before putting any bolts in, I will not remove them until each bolt has been very-gently torqued to spec. There is a nice opening in the J-engine head casting (directly below each cap location) to slip the fixed end of a clamp into, like it was designed for this purpose.
In my opinion, once the fine aluminum threads have been stressed, they're done.:pinch:

That makes great sense! Especially when you think about how much thread is engaged when you first start pulling down the cams - not much on the caps that must push the valves open. By using a clamp to first pull down the cams the whole length of each cap bolt's threads is engaged in the head before any stress at all is applied. I like it! Ed

650ed wrote:
That makes great sense! Especially when you think about how much thread is engaged when you first start pulling down the cams - not much on the caps that must push the valves open. By using a clamp to first pull down the cams the whole length of each cap bolt's threads is engaged in the head before any stress at all is applied. I like it! Ed

Same in reverse...clamp-down and take out all bolts before removing the cams as-well.
Happy to help.

This why the first thing I did before sending the head in for re working was install helicoils in all 16 holes and I still only go 80 inch lbs too just to be safe. With the bench shimming and removing them a couple times for breakin I figured they'd be put through a lot of abuse and didn't want a problem later.

bountyhunter wrote: But as Ed pointed out... what's the range max? I have an inch-pound wrench that is full scale 600 I-P which would be a terrible choice for a bolt that needed to be torqued to 100 IP. I also have a 200 I-P max torque wrench that I use for such jobs.

As somebody already said: below maybe 25% of full scale? You are really taking your chances.

Torque range: 20-200 in. lbs. +/- 4%, doing the cam caps tomorrow. :dry:

murquiza wrote:

bountyhunter wrote: But as Ed pointed out... what's the range max? I have an inch-pound wrench that is full scale 600 I-P which would be a terrible choice for a bolt that needed to be torqued to 100 IP. I also have a 200 I-P max torque wrench that I use for such jobs.

As somebody already said: below maybe 25% of full scale? You are really taking your chances.

Torque range: 20-200 in. lbs. +/- 4%, doing the cam caps tomorrow. :dry:

I did it. Just replaced a couple of bolts that didn't feel right just in case and torqued a little less at 90in/lbs. Bike ran perfect.

Note to self, always have the right tool at hand.

In my best Church Lady's voice:

"Never Mind"