low compression

D, Copper head gaskets and steel o rings became popular thru neccessity for turbo's and big bore/high compression motors. and went hand in hand w/heavy duty cyl studs. stock head gaskets w/mild motors were seldom problem. as they are forgiving. copper head gaskets can be used without ringing if compression is moderate, and be re-used (after annealing) if you plan on being there often. since your' going there, would staight edge and or plate head, and staight edge cyl. before disturbing cyl if possible, (once base gasket is disturbed it's false ecconomy to short-cut. I like stock, Others should chime in.G PS this would also be a good time to Barrett (SP) head.It might aide compression issue. (IE the possibility of a gpz/other head.) Luck G

your problem really sounds like cam timing still. i definitly would start there and double check that first it would not be the first time that problem has occured it happens to the best of us. i doubt that it is a deck height problem and depending how pitted the valve seats were pitted can have an effect on how far your cylinder head guy had to sink the valves but he should have tipped them a bit to bring them closer to the middle of the range.

Dshelly...

Timing diagram as provided in the image, doesn't require a degree wheel for this, only observations and possible resetting to the 28th tooth on the Intake camshaft compared to the exhaust camshaft mark aligned with the head deck...

Would be best/easiest to remove the tank but popping off the valve cover is only required for observations...

NOTE: Before doing so, get a new valve cover gasket!

NOTE2: Remove cylinder #4 spark plug... Remove ignition plate cover. Rotate the large 17mm nut forward until you can see the #4 piston at it's highest level. Will be close to TDC.

While the cover is off, check your shim to cam lobe heights... Kawi spec is .05mm - .1mm... As provided to me, shoot for .04 to .06mm....

Continued by strobe light, points setting (unknown if you have EI) etc....

OMR

Old Man Rock wrote:

Dshelly...

Would be best/easiest to remove the tank but popping off the valve cover is only required for observations...

NOTE: Before doing so, get a new valve cover gasket!

NOTE2: Remove cylinder #4 spark plug...

Removing all spark plugs will make it a whole lot easier to turn with that crankshaft nut.

that is an awesome diagram i've never seen one that clear yet. geez's OMR you sure are a good drawwer.

sounds like the cam sprocket may be off by a tooth.
Also i would try a dif comp gauge just to verify that yours is reading correct. could air be leaking around the gauges threads?did u have the throttle wide open?
A stock head gasket is best. copper will leak sooner.