Is it the clutch slipping?

Thanks guys. I'm going to pull the clutch apart tonight and take some measurements.

So does anyone know what the thickness is on brand new clutch discs. I have 3mm in there now with the minimum limit being 2.7mm. Is that enough?

clutch plate thickness out of the manual.

OMR

Beanie wrote:

So does anyone know what the thickness is on brand new clutch discs. I have 3mm with the minimum being 2.7mm. Is that enough?

Would de-glaze the surfaces and re-install.

Patton, do you recommend any particular grit snadpaper to deglaze the disks?
One guy told me once than he just rubs his on his cement driveway.:laugh:

riverroad wrote:

... any particular grit snadpaper to deglaze the disks? One guy told me once than he just rubs his on his cement driveway.:laugh:

Am thinking the slippage may have caused some glazing.
A good cleaning might alone be sufficient to remove any glaze without needing any sandpaper. But would in any event use reasonably "fine" grit, as it doesn't require much "sanding" to remove any glaze left after cleaning.

Mr. Cement Driveway probably employs this same remarkably advanced technique in milling heads. :woohoo:

Thanks for the laugh :lol: , and Good Luck!

What do you mean deglaze? I may have retorqued the springs a tad tighter to see if that helps. I couldn't measure the spring's tension but the supplement in the Clymer manual had a size specification of, I think it was, 30.71mm and they matched up to that.

edit* Ah ok. You're too quick for me.

edit* Oh and I found some Seafoam and Castrol 4T for bikes. I didn't deglaze before I put it back together but I did rearrange the discs and none of them looked "glazed."

Have heard reports (but am unable to verify) that synthetic oil may be "too slippery" for the old KZ clutches which are designed for the regular dino stuff. Also, that synthetic oil may leak past some engine seals where there was no leakage with regular oil. But there are proponents of synthetic having great results. Go figure.

Uncertain whether the type oil (syn vs reg) might be an issue in the present case, but thinking won't hurt to clean and deglaze plates before reassembly, regardless of oil type.

Have never tried synthetic because always had good results with non-synthetic.

Would suggest using a good grade regular non-synthetic motor oil after reassembly (also install a new oil filter) and again double-check all clutch cable and pushrod adjustments before test running.

Good Luck!

Yup. Castrol 4T nonsynthetic 4 stroke oil. Rated SG, SH.

I'm still wondering if someone knows what the thickness is of brand new friction discs. Right now I'm only .3mm away from the limit. If the original thickness is say 3.3, I'm only halfway through the clutch. But if the new thickness is 6mm, then i'll change them.

Beanie wrote:

So does anyone know what the thickness is on brand new clutch discs. I have 3mm in there now with the minimum limit being 2.7mm. Is that enough?

My manual says 2.9 - 3.1mm is nominal, 2.7mm is the service limit. I believe that the new discs would be 3.1mm.

So I believe my problem is fixed. It was the damn pushrod adjustment. After taking apart the clutch and seeing how it works I figured out what I did wrong. I overtightened the screw that pushes the ball and rod instead of lightly touching it and backing off 1/2 a turn. I was initially worried about leaving it loose.

Thanks everyone.

Glad to hear it WAS an easy fix.

And just to comment on the heavy-duty clutch springs...they really aren't that bad on the wrist.
I personally,didn't notice any difference over the stock springs.