Stout drag bike motor, suggestions please!

I recently purchased a kz1000. The motor is literally disassembled down to the cases. This is my opportunity to completely build the piss out of a kz!!!:woohoo:

First of all, my goals are to make as much naturally aspirated power as possible and maintaining the stock frame(braced up of course), and an extended swingarm. I want it to still look like a kz when it is done. I also want it to be able to take down the road once and a while. It wont be a daily driver by any means, but would be nice to take it to shows and stuff.

First of all, bottom end. I plan to have the transmission undercut and the crank welded. But i see ape offers lightening and balancing. Wouldnt a heavier crank be better for the strip? Basically what i'me saying is would the low end torque i lost be made up in abundance somewhere else? What type of clutch would work best for something that could be street-driven still? Is anything else necessary for bottom-end reassembly? bearings?

Top end. What is probably the largest displacement i can get without having bad overheating/driveability problems? As for cams/headwork, that can be settled when i get to that point which may be a while.

Thanks again for all your help.

Several websites to see: www.redlinecycle.com , www.overstockpartsgalore.com , www.dynoman.com , and www.kzzone.com

For stock and used parts: www.oldkawman.com , www.oldbikebarn.com , www.bikebandit.com , www.babbitsonline.com , www.z1enterprises.com , www.z-power.co.uk and www.crconlinecatalog.com

For a street driven bike, the best set-up is a Z1 crank. Even better is to have a 16T center pin installed but that will cost you some extra coin. More insurance then absolutely necessary but a good idea. The Z1 crank is lighter so it will rev faster getting you into the powerband faster. Less rotational weight to get moving. Once revved up, a heavier KZ1000 or MK11 crank is as good but takes a little longer to get revved up. Lightening and balancing would be fine but really not necessary for what you are going to do. When you have the crank welded be sure to have it indexed (makes sure the crank is straight and all the pistons will be at the same height to make best power) first. Then use a crank flex plate on the center crank support. Stock clutch will work fine. If you plan on racing your bike a lock-up clutch can make it easier to dial bike in. Easy to change set-up for any situation you might run into also. With more power on hand, it will help "lock-up" the clutch at high rpm. The other opeion is heavy duty clutch springs but that gets you very hard clutch pull and I don't recommend that. An over-shift bushing would be a good idea also. they don't cost much and are easy to install. A welded clutch basket is a good insurance item although you could probably get by without it, but it's still a good idea to do while the cases are apart. Have a HD second gear installed. 2nd gear is the weak link in a Z/KZ trans. APE builds a lot of big-blocks int eh 1395-1428 size for street bikes. You just have to watch sitting still in traffic for long periods. Can't beat cubic inches or cc's in this case but there are trade-offs in everything you do. If that is too big or too much hassle, 1200 works good on the street and a 1075cc motor is one fantastis all-around motor. Bigger you go, more HP you can have but the trade-off is heat. Occasional drives should be able to be handled by any size motor you want but just be very honest with yourself with how you plan on using it. I'm building a 1395 motor and will just live with whatever I have to! Some swear by oil coolers but I have heard good and bad on these. I run one but not really sure how much and if it really helps that much. The head work is where the power is. Spend the money on a good head if you are going for the HP. Best place to spend the money. As for cams, the biggest recommended for street use is .425-.435. Anything bigger will work but you have to use stronger springs and they don't last near as long but with bigget cams, they do make much more power but harder to drive around town as they are more for higher rpm use, and work best with higher compression ratios which would need better gas which ..... get how everything has a price? Bigger cams over .435 needs lots more headwork machining to make work also. Guess it boils down to how fast do you want to go and how much do you want to put up with. As they say...."Speed costs...how fast do you want to go!"

thank you very much racer54! This information is very valuable. As for how fast do I want to go? Is 11's unreasonable? Even faster? I dont really know what potential these have on the strip.

Be careful on this one...

www.overstockpartsgalore.com

I realize this was a find/posting from me where I did receive my piston kit w/cylinder within a week.

Unfortunately, I have also found this is the same business as MRE who has been screwing me around for other parts I already paid for. I only received partial order and have been jerked around since.

I have e-mailed them daily and have spoke to the owner Jay Regan numerous times and still no parts. He has out right lied to me numerous times, parts shipping today/tomorrow, they will be dropped shipped overnight etc...

Note: this has been going on for 45 days now!

See previous e-mail below... Bottom line, this guy SUCKS ASS, he's total B.S.! Don't use MRE if you can help it for he will SCREW you as he has me.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...29681&catid=2#229681

Old Man Rock

11's are pretty easy to get to. A 1075 kit with a good set of cams and 29's should get you there depending on how much you weigh. Sandy has a 1105, 29's and bigger cams. He weighs probably 170 or so. With a slick and a few passes he should be low 11's I would think.

racer54 wrote:

For a street driven bike, the best set-up is a Z1 crank. Even better is to have a 16T center pin installed but that will cost you some extra coin. More insurance then absolutely necessary but a good idea. The Z1 crank is lighter so it will rev faster getting you into the powerband faster. Less rotational weight to get moving. Once revved up, a heavier KZ1000 or MK11 crank is as good but takes a little longer to get revved up. Lightening and balancing would be fine but really not necessary for what you are going to do. When you have the crank welded be sure to have it indexed (makes sure the crank is straight and all the pistons will be at the same height to make best power) first. Then use a crank flex plate on the center crank support. Stock clutch will work fine. If you plan on racing your bike a lock-up clutch can make it easier to dial bike in. Easy to change set-up for any situation you might run into also. With more power on hand, it will help "lock-up" the clutch at high rpm. The other opeion is heavy duty clutch springs but that gets you very hard clutch pull and I don't recommend that. An over-shift bushing would be a good idea also. they don't cost much and are easy to install. A welded clutch basket is a good insurance item although you could probably get by without it, but it's still a good idea to do while the cases are apart. Have a HD second gear installed. 2nd gear is the weak link in a Z/KZ trans. APE builds a lot of big-blocks int eh 1395-1428 size for street bikes. You just have to watch sitting still in traffic for long periods. Can't beat cubic inches or cc's in this case but there are trade-offs in everything you do. If that is too big or too much hassle, 1200 works good on the street and a 1075cc motor is one fantastis all-around motor. Bigger you go, more HP you can have but the trade-off is heat. Occasional drives should be able to be handled by any size motor you want but just be very honest with yourself with how you plan on using it. I'm building a 1395 motor and will just live with whatever I have to! Some swear by oil coolers but I have heard good and bad on these. I run one but not really sure how much and if it really helps that much. The head work is where the power is. Spend the money on a good head if you are going for the HP. Best place to spend the money. As for cams, the biggest recommended for street use is .425-.435. Anything bigger will work but you have to use stronger springs and they don't last near as long but with bigget cams, they do make much more power but harder to drive around town as they are more for higher rpm use, and work best with higher compression ratios which would need better gas which ..... get how everything has a price? Bigger cams over .435 needs lots more headwork machining to make work also. Guess it boils down to how fast do you want to go and how much do you want to put up with. As they say...."Speed costs...how fast do you want to go!"

what he said!:laugh: quarter mile times depe on too many variables chassis tune,altitude,traction,rider,air temp ....

You can get into the 11's with a 1075 kit, 29 smoothbores and a header. This set-up will get there and then some.....mid to high 11's. Cams should be lower 11's. But remember this....all this depends on the rider also. I've seen same bike with different riders come up with over a half second difference in their e.t.s and they were the same size riders. Experience counts as much as anything. If you run an extended swingarm, you can launch much harder but the tire best be up to the task. The longer the arm, the better the tire has to be because moving the tire back takes weight off it for traction and traction is tuff to come by stock. I am running a 130/18 tire on stock wheelbase and can light up the tire at will with above set-up. Plan on having to improve chassis also if you add the ponies. It's the combination that counts, not individual components used. Do you have any idea what parts you are thinking about using?

Duly noted I've stricken overstock parts galore and mre from my listing.

donthekawguy wrote:

11's are pretty easy to get to. A 1075 kit with a good set of cams and 29's should get you there depending on how much you weigh. Sandy has a 1105, 29's and bigger cams. He weighs probably 170 or so. With a slick and a few passes he should be low 11's I would think.

Uhhh...was that a HINT,to get my bike down there,Don?:laugh:

Plan on using the J model head unless you want to keep the early KZ look. Talk to us about the correct pistons to use that will go with that head.

One of the members here just had us machine his J head for our cam chain adapter and do a valve job. It is on it's way back to him and he says he will be selling it. This is a nice non ported head.

Jay

jordan wrote:

I recently purchased a kz1000. The motor is literally disassembled down to the cases. This is my opportunity to completely build the piss out of a kz!!!:woohoo:

First of all, my goals are to make as much naturally aspirated power as possible and maintaining the stock frame(braced up of course), and an extended swingarm. I want it to still look like a kz when it is done. I also want it to be able to take down the road once and a while. It wont be a daily driver by any means, but would be nice to take it to shows and stuff.

First of all, bottom end. I plan to have the transmission undercut and the crank welded. But i see ape offers lightening and balancing. Wouldnt a heavier crank be better for the strip? Basically what i'me saying is would the low end torque i lost be made up in abundance somewhere else? What type of clutch would work best for something that could be street-driven still? Is anything else necessary for bottom-end reassembly? bearings?

Top end. What is probably the largest displacement i can get without having bad overheating/driveability problems? As for cams/headwork, that can be settled when i get to that point which may be a while.

Thanks again for all your help.

You are only going to need 4 things

1. A large box
2. A magic marker
3. A pen
4. A piece of paper

Instructions

1. Put all your engine parts in the box
2. With the magic marker - Write the address of APE on the outside of the box
3. With the pen and paper - Write a letter to Jay and tell him what you want to do
4. At the bottom of the paper - write your credit card number
5. Pack up box and send to Jay
6. The end

Zippy