82 Kz1000 motor in my 80 LTD.

I found out I have an 82 KZ1000 motor in my 80 KZ1000 LTD frame. Should I be Happy?

I looked it up and the motor does put out 102 Hp over the 92Hp plus torque is also up on that motor.

Is there any other Advantages/Disatvantages of having this motor over the original?

Does it say "998" or "1015" on the bottom right front of the cylinder block?

998 (J model motor 81 on) has either 92 hp or 102 hp, depending on the model of the bike.

Do you have a mechanical tach with the tach cable going into the front of the cylinder head? If so, then you definitely don't have the 102 hp version. Post a pic and the engine serial number and we can tell you if it's a J model motor, and maybe even which J model motor (if it is a 998 J).

Hope for the 1015 motor, it has a better rep, the early J's were known to have ring sealing problems.

It says 1.089 L so I take that as it being the bigger motor. The number on the motor is KZT00JE035667 .Is that the numbers you were talking about?:wooho

I have another question, would having 29mm smoothbore carbs give you more hp over the 34mm originals? Just wondering becasue it seems that everyone wants those carbs.

According to Zedder, that engine serial number is in the range for a 82 KZ1000 R1 (ELR, Eddie Lawson Replica), but the 1089 means it has an 1100 cylinder block. All this indicates to me that your motor is one that someone built (not stock), so there is no way of knowing what you actually have without opening it up (taking it apart to actually see and measure).

Can you contact the previous owner and ask if he/she was the one that built the motor, and if so then what components were used? Or who actually built it?

Since it actually displaces a minimum of 1098cc (probably more since someone went to the trouble of installing a 1100 block), 29mm smooth bores would probably work really well, but they are a tad expensive ($400-$500).

Going to be kind of tough to get any solid advice, since no one (including you) knows what you actually have.

Since someone went through the trouble of using a 1100 cylinder block, then they probably swapped out the cams as well.

Sounds like a Frankenbike,lol. Someone had to go through a fair bit of work to put a J model motor in a KZ frame. On the 29mm. smoothbores, best carbs for anything up to 1132cc. After that I'd go with RS's.

Thanks guys,

Steell , the bike already has 29mm smooth bores so I don't have to shell out the $400-500.

The person I bought it from told me that they had alot of other KZ's, parts, so I could imagine that it was built out of a few of them. I will contact him and find out exactly what they did to it. I will keep you posted on FRANKENBIKE !!! :evil:

This is nice. :laugh:

You got an 1100 engine, instead of 1000.
Its always nice to find out things like that.

I talked to the guy that I bought the bike from and he said it has 1105 pistons and heads but the block and cams are stock from a 1982 J model.

It's kinda nice to know that I got a bonus deal! :woohoo:

What do you guys think the motor should be putting out with the 29mmm smooth bores on it with individual are pods?

Stock the bike was supposed to put out 102 hp but in 998cc displacement.

10% increase in displacement plus a little increase in compression means it should be putting out 115 HP or so, in perfect tune.

But if you have the stock mechanical tach on your bike, and it's working, then it don't have KZ1000J cams, as they don't have a tach drive gear. The only 998 (J motor) cams that have a tach drive gear are the KZ1000M CSR.

People tend to call all the 998 motors J motors, but the actual J is a KZ1000J (102 hp and electronic tach), there are also KZ1000M CSR (92 hp and mechanical tach) and KZ1000K LTD (92 hp and electronic tach).

What you need are 83-84 GPz1100 cams, with those cams and the smoothbores you would probably be kicking out around 130 hp

And you'd need an electronic tach.

The tach is not working so I don't no if it is just not working or if it does have the other cams. How can I check, where does the tach attach to the motor or is it all in the wiring harness?

If it has a mechanical tach drive, the cable will screw on a adapter on the front of the head, right below the cam cover, on one side of the cam chain tunnel, but that's not going to tell you much. You will have to take the cam/valve cover off and physically look at the cams. If the exhaust cam has a gear on it, then it's a CSR cam, if it don't, then it's a LTD, J, or GPz1100 cam (or aftermarket).

If it doesn't have a tach drive gear on the exhaust cam, then there should be 1-4 (I forget the exact number) of grooves cut into the cam near the center. Those grooves will identify the cams.

I looked on the front of the valve cover and there is a hole there but nothing to screw into it. If it is not a mechanical tach how does it work and where is the wiring located for it so I can hook it up?