Clutch Handle Has No Tension (lots of pics)

Hold everything before taking it apart further.

In the first blow-apart pic it shows a 3 ball-bearing push assembly. If this is actually what you have the solution might be very simple. This assebly is operated by turning the plate by pulling clutch lever/wire. If you have 1mm too much play on the lever the 3 bearings will pop up from their notches (sorry for my poor english, try to hang on) and move up to a flat surface and it will not pull the assebly/ 3 bearings back to their ramps. This actually jams the clutch open and you´ll hear a loud snapping-noice. To unjam it loosen the bolts of the side cover a little and the assebly should go back to normal(you´ll hear a weak snap). My ELR has this problem/feature/curiosity and thats why I always have that hex-tool under the seat.

What I´d do next is:

1) Adjust your clutch push-rod according to your manual. Turn it till you feel it slightly tightening and GO BACK 1/4 turn. This adjustment controls the plate action ie. there must be just a little freeplay in order the clutch not to slip.

2)Adjust your clutch wire/lever. Start with very little clutch-play and musc free play and keep tightening it. It is tight enough when it opens the clutch no matter how much there is free play in the lever. It´s a quoestion of not turning the assebly "over".

Hope you can fix it soon.

Just got back from work. Wow! Lots of advice. I'm gonna go ahead and grease the sucker up, then try what you guys have posted. I'll be back with a progress report.

If it is ball and ramp I had the same thing and it was caused by the balls overriding the ramps. I was adjusting it with too much pull. Back it off and use the handlebar adjuster to take up the slack.

I am absolutely sure your clutch adjuster is a ball and ramp system. Your photos look like a ball and ramp to me an I bet your problem is in the adjustment.

I have one in my Z1000J and had the same problem. The clutch cable got slack due to over rotation of the release, locking the clutch in de-clutch position.

The reason for this in my case is that the manuals are wrong the as they always refers to the more common worm type adjuster. For a ball and ramp you unscrew the adjuster anticlockwise until you meet resistance and then couter closkwise 1/4 of a turn. This is opposite to the way you do a worm which leavess too much clearance allowing an over rotation and subsequent jam