- Posts: 133
- Thank you received: 1
Confused
- CptEDIV
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
+The bike feels like it doesn't have the power it should, or used to have. Also it will rev up then take 3-4 seconds to come back down after I've let off the throttle.
+I also had the 1rst carb letting gas out of the overflow. I tapped on it with a rubber mallet for a minute and begged that it stop and it hasn't done it since.
+How far out should I turn the (air screws?(Flathead small screws, one in each carb)) mixture screws? I think I have them at 1 and 1/4.
Any advice is muuch appreciated, and thanks for the link to the points and condensers info guys.
-Ed
1979 KZ 650 D2 \"Midnight\" blue.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Patton
- Offline
- KZr Legend
- Posts: 18640
- Thank you received: 2098
Remember to clean and gap points before setting timing.
Regarding power -- are all 4 cylinders firing? With engine idling, spray water mist (using common household spray bottle) over the exhaust headers. Water spray will immediately sizzle and vaporize on header from a firing cylinder. Water spray will form droplets and roll off a "cool" header pipe from the non-firing cylinder.
Often the lack of power is NOT a carb problem.
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- CptEDIV
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 133
- Thank you received: 1
Thanks pat.
What could be keepin my idle up?
Also, after puttin the new clutch cable on I only have clutch near the end when releasing, when before I had it more throughout the whole release... But it feels good other than that.
Thanks,
Ed
1979 KZ 650 D2 \"Midnight\" blue.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- CptEDIV
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 133
- Thank you received: 1
Lemme know what you all think, and thanks for the help.
-Ed
1979 KZ 650 D2 \"Midnight\" blue.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- CptEDIV
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 133
- Thank you received: 1
1979 KZ 650 D2 \"Midnight\" blue.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Patton
- Offline
- KZr Legend
- Posts: 18640
- Thank you received: 2098
Allow #2 cylinder to air out. Can blow out with compressed air into the cylinder through the spark plug hole or spray some starter fluid into the cylinder and let it evaporate. The idea being to clear the cylinder combustion chamber of all fuel before further testing.
Then put a brand new spark plug in #2 cylinder.
Get ready to crank cold engine in usual manner, with choke fully on (lever pulled completely up).
DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. Just push the starter button. When running, reduce the choke as soon as possible, working with the throttle keeping rpm up to prevent engine from stalling. This helps avoid the cylinders from loading up with excess fuel and fouling the plugs during warm-up time.
The results of this effort will guide further diagnosis.
Regarding clutch action -- has the clutch push-rod been adjusted (This is different from a cable slack adjustment). The cluch push-rod adjustment is usually done through an access port under a cover plate on the sprocket cover.
Btw, what type of petcock is being used, manual (on-off-res) or vacuum (on-pri-res)?
Keep the faith!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- bountyhunter
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 7246
- Thank you received: 337
Alright, lookin at it again, theres gas coming back through the second into the air intake. What does this mean? I dont know what I could be doin wrong. The second also has the accelerator pump. Im stumped...
It usually means the float and valve are not cutting off the fuel. Is that float working freely?
1979 KZ-750 Twin
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- CptEDIV
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 133
- Thank you received: 1
Thanks,
Ed
1979 KZ 650 D2 \"Midnight\" blue.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Patton
- Offline
- KZr Legend
- Posts: 18640
- Thank you received: 2098
...I'll put the new plug in and start it again tomorrow. It is fouled but has a bright fat blue spark... I may go get a plug and try it tonight....
With NGKB8ES my experience on several occassions has been that a relatively new fuel fouled NGK spark plug visibly perfect still fails after removing, drying and replacing. Tossed it and installed a brand-new NGK plug which performed flawlessly.
Seems that once an NGK plug fails, there's no bringing it back to life (regardless of cleaning it per FSM recommendation), at least for me.
Aside from that single oddity, I have always used and been well-pleased with the NGK's.
Post edited by: Patton, at: 2008/01/31 20:41
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- CptEDIV
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 133
- Thank you received: 1
Thanks,
Ed
*I'm using B7ES NGK plugs.*
Post edited by: CptEDIV, at: 2008/01/31 22:00
1979 KZ 650 D2 \"Midnight\" blue.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Bluemeanie
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 2519
- Thank you received: 14
1980 KZ650F1, Bought new out the door for $2,162.98!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- CptEDIV
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 133
- Thank you received: 1
Thanks,
Ed
I opened the drain plugs and with the gas there was a little brownish color coming out. Would this be an indication of crap getting in the carbs and possibly blocking up a jet?
Post edited by: CptEDIV, at: 2008/02/01 09:53
1979 KZ 650 D2 \"Midnight\" blue.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.