Need valve shims

bison wrote:

I used a good set of feeler gauges, it had like 30 or 40 feelers. Bought it at the auto store for $7.
With the small increments in my feeler gauges, I was able to zero right in, and only had to buy 3 shims.

Thanks for reply bison.
I don't think gauge quality is an issue. I use a Lufkin Tool Co Mod 1941, or I guess that is the model. An oldie but a goody micrometer, with which I check my Globemaster Mod 3625 gauges. They increase in 1/1000" steps from 1.5 to 25thds. (the first step is only 5/10,000"; from 0.0015 to 0.002). If I can get consistent results with 1thd resolution, then I'm satisfied. 4thds,however is too inconsistent.
Please don't tell me that using metrics will make all the difference, as I can handle any/all conversions. I prefer metrics simply because it is sooo much easier to use for just about everything, but it is not worth plopping down perfectly good gas money on unnecessary tools. Like for example, I use a tool made from a cutter nail for my valve hold down. It didn't set me back time or money. I guess I should however, make one from stainless, now that I have a working model.
Thanks again
Jim@MilkyWay

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I think I realize where I am missing the boat on my valve gap measurement technique. I studied my manual tonight and think I resolved it. I am now ready to measure and check everything again but with better results, I'll bet.
I would try it tonight, except that I have been sick as a dog with allergy or flue like symptoms all weekend. I even left work early today and I just practically never do that. Not even sure if I will make it in tomorrow.
Jim@MilkyWay

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Are you going to share your wisdom? I make lots of mistakes but try to learn by listening to advice from others.

pumps wrote:

Are you going to share your wisdom? I make lots of mistakes but try to learn by listening to advice from others.

Thanks for the vote Pumps, but not much advice to give in this case. Actually it is a little embarrassing. I must have thought that, so long as I had any cam sprocket marks lined up horizontally, then I could check any combination of valves, intake or exhaust with clearance. After reading and actually paying attention, I realize the intake gaps are measured when the intake cam sprocket is aligned and same with the exhaust. Like,duh?! it wasn't that tough to figure out.

Just my $0.02 worth...

Shims are cheap and if you buy the ones you need then when it comes time to do them again you should in time end up with a number of spares that match the clearances you need without having to wait for too long for replacements to come in.


Sid
z900.piczo.com
www.freewebs.com/sid_young <- under development
74 z1a, 76 z900-a4, 78 z1000, 80 z1000G, 84,85 GPz900R

JimatMilkyWay wrote:

After reading and actually paying attention, I realize the intake gaps are measured when the intake cam sprocket is aligned and same with the exhaust. Like,duh?! it wasn't that tough to figure out.

I know you have a 1000 and I don't know if it's much different from the 650 in valve measuring technique, but on the 650 when the cam sprocket lines up with the head edge, you can only adjust TWO of the intake or exhaust valves, then you have to turn the engine over to line up the marks on the other edge of the head, in order to measure the other TWO intake or exhaust valves.

[)[/quote]Thanks for the vote Pumps, but not much advice to give in this case. Actually it is a little embarrassing. I must have thought that, so long as I had any cam sprocket marks lined up horizontally, then I could check any combination of valves, intake or exhaust with clearance. After reading and actually paying attention, I realize the intake gaps are measured when the intake cam sprocket is aligned and same with the exhaust. Like,duh?! it wasn't that tough to figure out.[/quote]

You mean I have to actually read AND pay attention? Oh that will never do! Man if you only knew the time I have wasted on just silly things like not paying attention..getting in a hurry,stuff like that. You are NOT alone my friend!

sidy wrote:

Just my $0.02 worth...

Shims are cheap and if you buy the ones you need then when it comes time to do them again you should in time end up with a number of spares that match the clearances you need without having to wait for too long for replacements to come in.

Thanks Sid, and welcome to the forum. Isn't this a great country we live in? You can use a computer and the internet, to access a site like this, pick the brains of experts in the field, then buy parts needed to work on and maintain a thirty year old classic motorcycle and all it costs is the electricity to run the 'pooter. It's sort of fun if you axe me.

OKC_Kent wrote:

I know you have a 1000 and I don't know if it's much different from the 650 in valve measuring technique, but on the 650 when the cam sprocket lines up with the head edge, you can only adjust TWO of the intake or exhaust valves, then you have to turn the engine over to line up the marks on the other edge of the head, in order to measure the other TWO intake or exhaust valves.

Thanks for the reply. I was lining up the exhaust cam sprocket marks as often as the intake sprocket to check intake gaps, for example.