Power problem

Thats my post BSK! Iam going out for a ride soon so I will check that on the 650. Later guys

well a man once told me you dont have to be the sharpest tool in the shed, just follow the one that is:P

soot on the plugs indicates unburned fuel. Is the coil getting enough voltage on a good wire that can carry current? Is the spark weak? Are the jets too big? Something doesn't add up here.

nads.com wrote:

soot on the plugs indicates unburned fuel. Is the coil getting enough voltage on a good wire that can carry current? Is the spark weak? Are the jets too big? Something doesn't add up here.

The jets are stock the carbs are BS34's is there a way to check the coil maybe ohm it or something to tell if I have a bad one. That is what I am saying something isnt right just cant figure out what it is and will probably be something really small I am overlooking. also is there a way to test the CDI Igniter

Post edited by: dadams7161, at: 2007/05/28 00:45

Post edited by: dadams7161, at: 2007/05/28 00:57

Post edited by: dadams7161, at: 2007/05/28 00:57

Possible pin hole or tear in carb diaphram preventing full lift of slides?

Did you ever get around to checking compression? If you don't have a compression set, pull the valve cover, pull the ignition cover, roll it up to TDC and see if a cam sprocket timing mark is one tooth off. My 900 and Kim's 650 both had this happen (inability to rev above 5 or 6 thousand, fouling plugs, top speed about 50-60) due to an exhaust cam retarded by one tooth. Not keeping up with the tensioner, or the chain stretching too long for the automatic tensioner, can let the cam timing jump.

tjk wrote:

Did you ever get around to checking compression? If you don't have a compression set, pull the valve cover, pull the ignition cover, roll it up to TDC and see if a cam sprocket timing mark is one tooth off. My 900 and Kim's 650 both had this happen (inability to rev above 5 or 6 thousand, fouling plugs, top speed about 50-60) due to an exhaust cam retarded by one tooth. Not keeping up with the tensioner, or the chain stretching too long for the automatic tensioner, can let the cam timing jump.

I have thought about that also but was trying to stay away from that till I check all the electrical, carbs, I found in the manual how to check the coil and wires and pickup coil I wont be able to get around to that till tomorrow morning. You guys are the best here ask and everybody tries to help. I cant wait to get this thing running correctly so I can brag about all the help I have received.

Patton wrote:

Possible pin hole or tear in carb diaphram preventing full lift of slides?

This one I will have to check out for sure. Thanks

I suggest you begin thinking about checking various issues in a systematic way or you will go down lots of rabbit trails trying to trouble shoot this issue. I would also not ride the bike until I figure out what the problem is.

I would do these things in this order:

1. check compression - read the various threads; there are many on how to do it. Most likely cause of low compression is valve adjustment issues. See the Valve Clearances article on our website... www.wgcarbs.com under "wg's Tech Stuff Index"

IF you compression is OK, the move to ignition...

2. check the voltage at the coils... sooty plugs are a give-away that coil voltages are low. This has already been suggested but you have been given so many tips, that you might have missed it. There is an article on "COIL REPOWERING in the same place on our site. Read it. You bike doesn't have a CDI ignition I think; more likely an IC Igniter but if both plugs are sooting, then there isn't likely anything wrong with the ignition, per se. Check the coil primary and secondary impedences; if the primary shows a large amount of resistance, spark will be poor. And service your mechanical ignition advance. That means take it off and clean it and lube it!

3. If both these things fail to have the bike running as it should, ensure the clutch isn't slipping. Get a friend or another KZRider member living close to you to ride the bike... When in top gear, do the rpms increase but the bike not accelerate? Sure sign of slipping in the clutch which is likely an adjustment issue since you replaced much of the clutch already.

4. Carbs... maybe but I bet you fix the problem BEFORE you get this far. Clean or replace the air filter first. Then remove the airbox with the carbs installed on the bike and REV the engine... watch the slides to see if they rise as they should and do so equally. THIS will tell you if the slide diaphragms are seated correctly and have holes. I wouldn't start any carb disassembling at this point and if you need to, start another thread in the carb section.

Coil specs:

15k-17k ohms on the secondary side (measured between the two plug wires).

2.4-3.5 ohms on the primary side (measured between the two small wires).

Take the spark plug caps off the spark plug wires to measure the secondary resistance.

Measure the resistance of the spark plug caps, they should be near 5k ohms.

I had to replace several spark plug caps a while back because they were all bad.

OK doesnt look good to me. I checked the compression and I am getting 100 on the right bank and 110 on the left bank. So from what I am guessing is I have bad rings is this correct or is there other things that can cause low compression on a Motorcycle.

valve adj, if they are tight it will have low compression, but even if the compression is a bit low it still should get up to speed may take longer.
I am not sure about this bike does it have a chain? just wonder if someone changed the gear on it,