Rebuild Question- Valve shims (?)

Sounds like your getting it done. Looks like you got a good bike there. Now you just need to keep your dads mits off of it when you get it done. :laugh: BTW have you checked your jetting in the carbs yet? I saw you have a 4 into 1 exhaust and you put new pod filters on. You might have to go up a couple of sizes on your mains jets for the pods.

Good to see that you are making progress. . .

cuddies wrote:

. . . It seemed like when I would get 2 or 3 (of the 4 shims, each side), right, then there would be at least 1 wrong, so I would switch that one wrong shim, and they measure again, and they they would all be wrong. . .

I don't want to second guess what you are doing, but is it possible that not all of the cam saddles are torqued down properly?

Anyway. . .least it is moving along.

Kazoo, that was my initial thought...

THe intake side was giving me BIGGGG trouble and was frustrating me, so I moved to the exhaust. In the middle of the exhaust side, I realized the the proper torque setting are mandatory. OOPS. So doing the exhaust side, I made sure they were always torqued properly (9 ft. lbs). I since have not gone back to the intake, so maybe that was my problem?! I sure hope so. I am going to check it out tomorrmow


As for the post before- you are right, I believe I will have to go up a size or two on the mains. Right now, I have a 11.5 (don't know what that # means exactly), and then I also have a size up which is a 11.8. The 11.5's are in the carbs now.

Well, at least I found out what sizes I need for the intake.

Need to order (2) 250's, and (1) 225. And a petcock..and that rubber spacer thing that bolts on underneath the idler (?) sproket. [the thing in between the cams that has the sproket on it] I lost one of the two rubber spacers, so now I have to oder a new one..

Shims are expesive, $10 bucks a shim? Wow.

cuddies wrote:

Well, at least I found out what sizes I need for the intake.

Shims are expesive, $10 bucks a shim? Wow.

Dude, take a micrometer and your shims with you to some off-the-wall repair shop. Sometimes dealers are ok with this too.

Trade what you have for what you need. Tell them anything . . . I know . . . Tell 'em it's a school project you're doing for your Dad for a Father's day present.

:lol:

It IS a school project for my dad...


Anyways, would re-grinding the tip of the valve, oh say, 8 thousands (or whatever the gap calls for) be a bad idea? If I grind the tip of the valve, it will lower the bucket, and be the right height. I don't see how this could be bad?

Post edited by: cuddies, at: 2007/05/16 18:49

I wouldn't regrind the tips on any of the valves unless totally necessary.
When a valve seat has worn to the point that there's not a small enough shim available to place in there and get a decent measurement, then that's the time it would be necessary to grind the tip of the valve.