only 2 & 3 ?

Okay I'm new so take it easy on me. I finally got a 79 KZ650C for a couple hundred...didn't run. I've put a battery, new points..condesors, carb cleaner, main fuel hose etc into it...got it to run...well half of it. 1 and 4 spark plugs are getting spark but when it turns over only 2 and 3 seem to be firing. I figured that out by seeing 2 and 3 are the only plugs getting rich carbon results. I have to run the choke fully engaged to keep it running? Number 1 and 4 pipes are always cold and the spark plugs look like nothing is happening in there? I checked the compression..1 and 4 are okay. Maybe there's just no fuel to 1 and 4....which sounds strange. Maybe something with the advance or timing? I'm irritated. Thanks in advance. D

Check the coil. 1 and 4 use the same coil, 2 and 3 use the other one. At the same time 1 and 4 use the same points, 2 and 3 use the other set. Follow the spark plug wires to the coil, make sure you have power to the coil wires arent corroded etc. Do you have a service manual? There's a procedure for testing the impedance of the coils, if you dont have manual I can look it up for you, at least I can for 1000 should be pretty much the same though. Might even be in the file section already Sounds like you have a coil that isnt working for whatever reason. If you find the coil is no good you can buy new ones at Z-1 Enterprises

Ron

Yeah I thought about that earlier...but I'm getting spark just like on 2 and 3. I have the manual, one of the coil tests I did passed a couple weeks ago. It hasn't ran in years so I guess it wouldn't hurt getting another coil?

Well if you're getting spark you would think the coil is probably not the problem. I'd check the timing before jumping to conclusions. If your bike has points follow the manual for setting the point gap, static timing, then check with a light. 1+4 run off of one set of points and 2+3 run off the other so maybe one set of points is not working right. Watch it while it is running and see if there is arcing from the points too. Could be bad wires or bad plug caps too. When I got my bike the caps were green inside where they screw onto the wires. I had spark, but it was weak. The points are kind of a pain but they need to be set pretty good or you have problems. You'll need feeler guages, an ohm meter, and an inductive timing light.

Ron

the plugs are in series so if one plug is bad the other
one will not fire either...at least on my kz900. i can't imagine a 650 would be any different....if i am right anyway!:whistle:

well I aint going to get it this weekend? I pulled the caps..I did trim the tips just in case, then I screwed em back on. She fired right up....still on 2 and 3 though? I'm getting great spark off 1 and 4 now. I pulled the 1 and 4 plugs while it was running and it didn't affect it one bit so something is wacky down in the advancer or points? Okay I've set the point gaps and before I try the timing what exactly am I adjusting? Why can't this be like my distributer on Chevelle!!

Well, it kind of can be, but you need to throw away the ignition system and buy the Dyna S electronic ignition, or one of the other ones available. Until then you are stuck adjusting the points It works on the same principal but instead of turning the distriuter cap you are moving the points up and down, think of it as 2 distributer caps. So if your point gap is set, now you need to time it. If it is like my 1000 you start with static timing which you need the ohm meter for. You turn the motor by hand until you get the F lined up with the timing mark and move the plate until the meter fluctuates. You want it right on the edge of the points opening enough to make the meter move. Then you turn the motor to the other F for the other 2 cylanders and do the same with the other points plate. Once that is done you check it with the timing light and make any fine adjustment needed. If the 650 is like my 1000 then at idle or under 2300 rpm i think it is, you should see the F lined up with the timing mark. You do that once with plug wire for #1, once with #3. The factory Kawa manual has a pretty good pictorial for what you are looking for. If there is doubt as to which side you are adjusting for which F just turn the motor over a few times and watch which set of points open just after you go past that F. They should be labled 1 F 4 and 2 F 3 I think. Don't confuse the T with the F I myself am tempted to toss all that crap in the dumpster and get the electronic ignition. It is supposed to be "set it and forget it".

Ron

OK ........
To all you guys still using points.......
Static timing and feeler gauges are JUST for the base setup or to get you off the side of the road .

You NEED a timing light and a dwell meter to get the BEST tune on a duel point system.

(and a brand new screw driver to move the little plates around)

I'm not really well versed in the whole bike mechanics thing just yet, but it seems to me that since he's getting spark, he might want to check to make sure he's getting fuel. I'm going through the same issue on my Yamaha XJ650 right now. Spark out the wazoo on all cylinders, but no fire in the cylinder. Just came to the realization yesterday that it looks like my float needle assembly has crapped the bed.

look to wired georges site I think he has a good outline of things to check, valve lash, clean the carbs, make sure the intake boots are sealed, coils, condensers and points, he is pretty good about checking all the basic stuff first, and more times than not you will solve the problem without much effort

I was looking those Dynas...300 bucks? Thats more than I got the whole bike for? Anyway....I static timed it..same result. I will throw my light on it this weekend. I think it's weird after I run it 1 and 4 plugs are basiclly dry...you would think they would be soaking wet? What are the chances the needles are messed up on 1 and 4...making it sound like an electric problem. That would be my luck though...thanks for your help.

Dunno, I had my 3+4 wires reveresed so was not firing and when I finally pulled the plugs they were dry so I would not say that is 100% that you arent getting fuel. Keep after it, dont assume anything. Have you checked to see if there is fuel in the bowls? That's as easy as loosening the big flat head screws at the float bowl. Not that it means they are working properly but at least you know there is fuel in there. It certainly would not be impossible for both carbs to be stuck. If you think $300 is a lot of money you are probably picking the wrong hobby DONT BUY A BOAT!