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clutch adjustment
- nick_borer
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I futzed around with the clutch adjustment today. It never seemed to pull in enough and it was dragging when I could get the bugger to run. Now, I just can't seem to get it right. I went as far as taking the chain cover off, re-greasing the clutch actuator inside, lubing the cable, and re-adjusting it a la the sequence in my Clymer. However, when I get on the bike, pull in the clutch, and put it in gear, I notice that the clutch is dragging quite a bit (it's a real effort to push the bike forward when in gear but with the clutch fully in). Is this normal? I wouldn't think so, but I've never ridden a bike regularly, so I don't know. I wouldn't think it is right. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Nick
Medford, MA
1982 KZ550C3 (kinda running)
1975 XS650B (in restoration)
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- KaZooCruiser
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How old is the oil in the bike? Maybe the plates are gummy/glued together. It's 25 year old bike. Welcome to resto-world.
You could drain the oil, put in a gallon of solvent (ATF), pull the clutch lever, and crank the motor around to maybe free them up. Don't start the bike, just flush the solvent through, then drain it and start over with fresh oil and a new filter.
Maybe the cable is frayed. Some of the machines use cables that have extra metal barrels where fraying isn't obvious, like it could be on the ends.
And no, it isn't normal to have a dragging clutch.
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- Patton
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1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- nick_borer
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I adjusted the clutch rod as well. I didn't think about the ball bearing at the other end of the clutch rod -- how would I get at it? What would cause that ball bearing on that end to go missing?
Medford, MA
1982 KZ550C3 (kinda running)
1975 XS650B (in restoration)
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- Patton
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...bought an '82 KZ550C3...wasn't running so well...clutch adjustment...never seemed to pull in enough...was dragging...re-greasing the clutch actuator...lubing the cable, and re-adjusting it...clutch is dragging...bike has about 13k...cable itself is okay...was bone dry...didn't see any fraying...lubed it...adjusted the clutch rod...didn't think about the ball bearing at the other end of the clutch rod -- how would I get at it? What would cause that ball bearing on that end to go missing?
Recommend getting a repair manual for guidance. Plates should be okay after only 13k miles, but might be time to go inside and check for loose clutch hub nut, missing parts, remove and disassemble clutch to clean the plates and look for warpage, lightly sand the fiber coverings, check for even spring tension (possible broken spring), assure free movement of housing on the drive shaft.
Here's a diagram from Kawasaki.com that might be helpful as it shows the small bearing. If the rod was pulled out from the left side for whatever reason, I am unsure whether the bearing could fall out of place, and where it would go if it did. But it's supposed to be in there. Others more experienced could offer better advice on that aspect.
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- katjbus
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- Kiwiz
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Screwing the adjuster clockwise and backing out a quarter turn is wrong for the ball and ramp adjuster.
You screw it fully anticlockwise to remove the clearance and the clockwise a quarter of a turn. After weeks of frustration with my J clutch I found out the instructions in Clymer were wrong for this type of mechanism,leading frequent jamming of the clutch open.
The problem is there are two types of adjuster but the manual mentions only one. The more common worm mechanism, where Clymer instructions are correct and this type where they are the complete opposite.
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- nick_borer
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I saw a pretty good article in the KZrider archives about clutch replacement, so I'll use that as a start. Any particular advice? Is there a special clutch holding / alignment tool I should pick up? Also, where do you guys recommend getting parts, say friction plates? I see them at BikeBandit for about $9 each, and I know that they are rarely the cheapest. If you know of cheaper / aftermarket alternatives, I'm all ears.
Thanks!
Medford, MA
1982 KZ550C3 (kinda running)
1975 XS650B (in restoration)
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- Z1109R Fin
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Another thing is that if I understood it right you haven´t actually ridden tha bike at all. It is normal the plates to stick after a few months winter storage. Crank it up and dump the clutch:evil: You wont brake it unless you´ll end up wheelieing back to your carage. Besides if you really need to change plates you can do it in about 1 hour so no big deal to first try to ride it. Usually plates are changed cause they slip.
Z1000R ´83...Slightly modified...
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- nick_borer
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It is currently adjusted the way you say (backwards from the Clymer description, I figured that one out when I took the side cover off). I was hoping NOT to replace the clutch, but maybe take it apart for a look-see to determine if it's stuck together, the springs are good, the ball bearing at the end of the rod is in place, and so on. If you think I should wait and get the motor running and try to break it loose then, I'll wait.
When I have a few more things worked out on the motor I'll put together a motor trouble post, and you can tell me where I screwed up. I have a few ideas...
Medford, MA
1982 KZ550C3 (kinda running)
1975 XS650B (in restoration)
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- KaZooCruiser
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Dump oil into clean container.
Put in a gallon of ATF.
Hook up jumper cables to a strong 12v source.
Turn key on.
Put bike into gear.
Pull clutch lever in.
Push starter button for a long time, to force solvent into plates.
Do it for enough time to wash out any gummyness.
Drain goo. Replace filter. Reuse originally drained oil if still new.
$8.00 invested may fix this problem.
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- nick_borer
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If my clutch plates are stuck together, should I notice no difference or some difference whether the clutch is in or out? Right now, when I pull in the clutch lever, I do get the smallest amount of give -- I can push the bike forward with a great amount of effort when in first (whereas, with the clutch out, I cannot push it at all despite my best effort).
Thanks for the advice & keep it coming. I'll get this clutch working yet...
Nick
Medford, MA
1982 KZ550C3 (kinda running)
1975 XS650B (in restoration)
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