'81 750H - lost manifold bolt

OK, I fear I know the answer to this one ...

I have had an ongoing problem getting the exhaust pipes to properly seat in the manifold. The removable flanges always seem to slide into the retaining collar.

Attempting to readjust the assembly yet another time, one of the bolts which holds the #4 retaining collar to the engine block sheared off.

Am I relegated to having to have the broken bolt bored out of the manifold?

Is there anything I can do as a stopgap to more securely hold the pipe to the manifold so I don't end up with a Harley sounding growling engine?

Post edited by: psychbiker, at: 2007/03/19 21:19

Did the bolt snap off flush at the head,or is there anything sticking out past the surface?
Can You post a pic?...

Did the bolt snap off flush at the head,or is there anything sticking out past the surface?
Can You post a pic?...

It snapped in half ... just about at where the threads begin.

I'll get a pic up later today.

If you have anything to grab onto you might be able to vice-grip it out, heat it up with a torch. If not you can try drilling a hole in it and tapping an easy out in. Not much else I know of...and I've never had a lot of luck with so called easy-outs Hopefully you have enough of it sticking out to grab onto that will be your best bet of avoiding major work.

The vise grips will likely allow you to remove the stud or you can use a stud remover. If these don't work, you can use a Dremmel tool with cut off wheel. Cut a slot in the top of the stud and use a flat screwdriver blade in a hand impact driver.

So, am I understanding you all correctly that the bolt is actually threaded on both ends and it will (should) actually just screw out of the manifold?

Even if that is the engineering, I'm going to assume it isn't as simple as just unscrewing it from the manifold?

Part 2 of the question is then, obviously, where do I get a bolt to replace the one I will be (hopefully) removing?

Post edited by: psychbiker, at: 2007/03/20 09:15

Z1E carries the exhaust stud

KZ750ExhStud

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1558


Exhaust Stud 6x27 Kawasaki
92004-066

Kawasaki (USA)
Kawasaki

OEM: 92004-066


Exhaust Studs 6x27. Fits Kawasaki EX250E1/E2/F2-F12 KL250A1/A1A/A2/A3/A4 KLX250A1/A2 KZ1300A1/A2/A3/A4/B2 KZ200A1/A1A/A2 KZ550A1/A2/A3/A4/C1/C2/C3/C4/D1/F1/F2/H1/H2/M1KZ650B1/B2/B2A/B3/C1/C2/C3/D1/D1A/D2/E1/F1/H1/H2/H3 KZ750E1/E2/E3/F1/H1/H2/H3/H4/L3/N1/N2/R1 ZX550A1/A2/A3 ZX600A1/A2/A3/B1/C1-C10 Genuine Kawasaki Motorcycle part


$2.00

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/03/20 09:33

Believe this stud is the one with slightly larger cut threads to fit tightly into the head (clamp nut won't screw on the "head" end), so be sure it's installed accordingly.

As always, many thanks for the responses.

I'll order the stud from z1.

But want to maximize the chances of success and hopefully not shear off the remainder of the stud.

Would I need to do anything to prepare before attempting a Vise-grip removal?

Is the stud reverse threaded in the manifold?
(i.e. turn right to loosen, not left?)

Once this is all done, anyone have any suggestions on how to resolve what started this all in the first place -- the pipe-flange-collar combo not seating properly?

Post edited by: psychbiker, at: 2007/03/20 11:03

When I did mine I made sure that all the remaining clamps on the exhaust system were loose so the exhaust header had some movement when I initially tightened down the collars to the head. As far as the retaining flanges go the manual suggest using some tape to hold the two pieces together during installation. The tape will burn off after use. Another suggestion is to use a rubberband to hold the two halves together and then snip it off after instalation is complete.

Yep. While you're waiting for your new stud, squirt some good penetrating oil on the old stud. Also helps to tap on the stud with a hammer to set up a vibration in the metal to help draw in the penetrating oil. If you can find it, use Kroil brand. Others swear by PB Blaster (I haven't tried it). Let it work for a day or two. Squirt some more on and tap some more. Don't get impatient with it. Then use whatever afore mentioned method that fits the situation best. The cut slot with an impact driver is best IMO.
When you get it out, be sure to clean out the hole, then put some antisieze on the new stud and screw it in.