New 82 GPz750 in the Stable

I disassembled and cleaned the turn indicator switch, then had to replace the turn signal flasher. Emergency and turn signals all working properly. Changed fluid in the front and rear brakes. Mounted and balanced new tires. Installed the front one and front fender this morning. Went to install the rear and the new 102 link 530 chain is too short. I can't get the axle through. I'll measure but I'm betting I need 106 link. Then I will have the joy of cutting this new one off and waiting for the next new one to come in the mail. Discs and pads all look good. I'll install the rest of the body work and install the throttle cables on the ZG1000 while I wait for the chain to arrive.

Keep in mind this came to me in not running condition. I've installed the 106 link chain, perfect fit. When I reinstalled the rear wheel assembly I noticed the wheel started to bind when the axle bolt approached tight. Spec is 87 lb ft and I'm talking about an approximate 15 to 20 lb ft of torque. On closer inspection is looks to me like a collar is missing on the left hand side. It is part 92027A in the explode view from Partzilla in the attachment. There isn't a collar on the bike, I can see what looks like a typical rubber seal that should ride on the collar, and the grime I'm looking at suggests it hasn't been on in a long while. Can anyone confirm something is missing. The service manual indicates the axle assemble/layout isn't unique to the GPz.

Looks indeed like you are missing 92027A.
Assuming that grime covered piece of metal is the axle itself
Below is a quick pic I just took of my left side assembly

My KZ650 D2 and the 2001 ZRX1200R look just like your pic JR. Thank you for sharing. Your E is near identical to the R1 is it not?

Your E is near identical to the R1 is it not?

I think so but not 100% sure.

Just wondering though - without 92027A collar what prevents the wheel from moving side to side on the axle? It's been a while since I had the rear wheel off so cant remember exactly

The grimey piece is a collar with a healthy lip in the center. Tapered on the left, flat on the right which slips inside the LH wheel bearing until it shoulders up to the lip. Before tightening the axle nut there is a short 1/8th inch of free play which quickly disappears once you begin to tighten the axle nut. I dug around in a box of loose parts, some of which aren't for this bike that I was given. I found a collar. It is 15mm wide for the part sitting on the axle shaft which equates to over 1/2 inch. I don't see how it could possibly fit into the space unless there is something out of whack inside the hub or wheel.

Part #3 is missing or get lost during a tire/wheel change.
Without the collar the swing arm will be bent and the wheel can move sideways.




Michael

ajsfirehawk wrote

The grimey piece is a collar with a healthy lip in the center. Tapered on the left, flat on the right which slips inside the LH wheel bearing until it shoulders up to the lip

Ah !

So I poked about in the shed and pulled out spare axle and bits and below is a photo.
From your description of the gimey piece I am wondering if it is really part number 9 from siroccos diagram and my photo below. If so then that part should be on the other side of the sprocket carrier

The sprocket carrier fits between #3 and #9 . The wheel fits between 9 and 23



Part number 3 is 40mm outer diameter and 19.5 mm deep

Thank you men. JR, excellent pic! #9 is outside bearing #7 on this bike, meaning it is on the left hand side of it and that is what is sticking outing grimey in my pic. Since it should be inside the bearing, that has to be what is taking up most of the space where the collar, #3 should reside. Outstanding gentlemen! I'll disassemble the hub and get #9 in the proper spot.

Issue resolved, many thanks! Collar #9 was the issue, and it actually should be oriented with the tapered side towards the wheel bearing. The other side slips inside the carrier bearing. You can tell by the way the machined faces match the inner races of both bearings. That was interesting. Certainly had me bamboozled (tech term) for a while. Aggravates me I lost more than a day dorking around with it but finally got there with assistance.

She is now all put together and got her out for a test ride. They are such fun to ride, quick, agile, real grin machines. I've got to do some tuning at higher rpms. After several miles I started to get on it more. Rolled on the throttle and it pulls nicely to 7K and falls on it's face. Next test rolling at 5K and crack the throttle WFO and it bogs at 6K. Next test, start at a rolling 5K and slowly roll on throttle and it makes it to 8K. I did removed, clean and lube the mechanical advance.






EDIT: PS - not my house or neighborhood. Taking some shots to sell it.

Jumped the negative side of the coil harness directly to ground, turned on the ignition and checked voltage at the coil per Pablo's suggestion on KZ650. 11.48V and 11.49V respectively. It comes in a couple tenths lower with the ground side attached to the coils. This has an old gray foam style air filter. I have no clue just how old it is but it certainly doesn't look like much/enough air could pass through it at higher rpms. Seems like that could cause the symptoms described. Agree?

EDIT: I also separated the ignition pickups connector, shot both sides with De-Oxit, blew it dry with compressed air and reassembled.