And finally, Wookie's 82 begins !

Nice "save" Wookie! Looks almost ready to rumble...rumble rumble.

Thanks Clay, not far away now just lot's of small jobs to finish it up. As is always the way with this kind of build things seem to change between fab and final fit !!! the spigot for the return spring on the brake pedal was fouling the mounting bolt for the exhaust but fortunately reworking the spigot and skimming the bolt head gave me just enough clearance, no big drama just another hour

Now the coil issue is resolved I have been working through the list of jobs required to finish this "little project" !!!! that being engine wiring wrapped up, stator wires replaced and a new grommet and the rear brake reservoir is now connected. Next was the breather, on my set up this needs to run under the air-box to the catch can but the OE et up is too tall. I ended up machining the tower off of the cover and making a new barb which should lower thing by around 7mm. This is press fitted into the housing (pulled in with a nut and bolt as my press may have cracked the housing) next job was to fettle the speed sensor bracket to get the correct air-gap for the sensor. Popped the chain on today which has created another little job, it's an "o" ring chain and the width meant the rivets where just kissing the clutch slave. This is an easy fix as some spacers will move it out and the push rod is adjustable. Next job for tomorrow is to install a bronze push in the sprocket cover to take the slop out of the gear selector rod and bleed the hydraulics  
















 

Wookie!! You're almost there! Might i add a bit to your reduced sparky and crafty sleeve in breather housing. I know it looks cool and all but "DON"T"! You want as much flow as possible out of that OEM barb as possible otherwise you'll find Your engine won't be able to suck and spit all the pressure produced by the pistons. Resulting in weeping gaskets of all/some of the engine covers. I could tell tales of someone that tried that to route "cleanly" but i'm not a tattletale.    

Soon you'll be able to change the post title to: And finally, Wookie's 82 runs and drives !
Looking forward to it...

asphalt900 wrote:

Wookie!! You're almost there! Might i add a bit to your reduced sparky and crafty sleeve in breather housing. I know it looks cool and all but "DON"T"! You want as much flow as possible out of that OEM barb as possible otherwise you'll find Your engine won't be able to suck and spit all the pressure produced by the pistons. Resulting in weeping gaskets of all/some of the engine covers. I could tell tales of someone that tried that to route "cleanly" but i'm not a tattletale.    

Appreciate the feedback Clay, however I believe my set-up will flow better than OE. The ID of the barb is only 1mm less than stock (housing bored out to 13mm for the barb) but on the OE air-box (I guess because it's only a couple of inches from the breather housing so could "suck" oil) is "VERY" restrictive. Since my airbox entrance is around 18" away with a catch can in between the baffle in the air-box is significantly less restrictive - I guess time will tell ??

Well the weekend has definitely been a "game of two halves" - Saturday I got the spacing sorted on the clutch slave and bronze bushed the sprocket cover to take the "sop" out of the selector shaft which has worked out great





Then it was onto the hydraulics, I wanted to bleed the clutch to ensure it worked before I fitted the sprocket cover and also I need hydraulic pressure to operate the starter "cut out" switch. This was where the fun started, to be fair I was half expecting an issue as the "All-Ball" seal kit I put in the master was a bit suspect to say the least !!! and it didn't dissappoint, the ports in the master are completely clear but it just would not pass fluid into the chamber !!!!!! - further investigation required ?
Then I thought best bleed the brakes and ensure there are no issues there, so fluid passed as expected was wasn't expected was fluid dripping from both front callipers !!!!! having partially disassembled them again it appears the seals between the calliper halves aren't sealing (that would explain the silicon sealant in there when I disassembled them the first time) I need to dig deeper but one thing I have found is the factory seals are listed as 2.2mm thick, the ones I have from the kit I bought are only 1.83 - 1.89mm thick. I appreciate they have been fitted for a while but this is the first time they have had fluid through them so I wouldn't expect rubber to compress in that way !!!!!!!!!!!!!
On the plus side the rear brake combo of Suzuki calliper and Yamaha master bled with no issue and works as it should

You seem to know the sizes for the O rings but Powerhouse UK do caliper rebuild kits. They'll also make up bespoke kits to you needs

I love everything about this build.

moizeau wrote:

You seem to know the sizes for the O rings but Powerhouse UK do caliper rebuild kits. They'll also make up bespoke kits to you needs

That is where I got the kits from that are in there now, super nice people and very helpful. To be fair to them, they rebuild hundreds of callipers with their seal kits and I'm not suggesting the issue is down to them. When I stripped the callipers initially, somebody had used silicon on the "O" rings so I guess this isn't a new problem, just need to look closely. I have made an adaptor tonight so I can pressure test them with a tyre inflator before I put fluid in them again (if they don't hold pressure I will put them in a bucket of water and look for the bubbles)

ThatGPzGuy wrote:

I love everything about this build.

Hopefully the disciples of OEM can stop sticking pins in their Wookie dolls long enough to at least appreciate the time and effort that has gone into it - Lol

Well it's official, those front callipers that I put all that time, effort and money into are "SCRAP" having stripped them again replaced the "O" rigs with OEM (which are thicker) I decided to make an adaptor to pressure test them with a tyre inflator before putting fluid back in the system (interested to get the opinion of others on this but my thinking was if it can't hold 100psi of air pressure it's never going to hold significantly more hydraulic pressure) and so the result multiple pistons on both callipers won't hold pressure (there is some pitting in the seal grooves but I was optimistic that they would be OK "wrong" so back to Ebay (motherf@*^#er)