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Painted engine cases. Cerakote instructions call for 5 days until final cure. I painted clutch cover (see in comparison to unpainted covers).Clutch cover is to be polished. I painted just so I can make some experiments on how it holds.

The only part I didn't do per instruction - it wasn't sand blast. It was bead blast which they don't like, but let's see how it holds. Used very little paint. This can is enough for 3-4 engines.

 

Have a question about valves.

1. I took guides out (rusty, pitted in channels) - ordered set of bronze APE relacements. Is 7.00mm correct reamer to use?
2. Valves. See pics, they were rusty, black paint? Came off in spots. Is it bad? Also I see valve working surfaces is not flat, but round-ish. Looks like bad "lap" job. My assumption they need to be replaced, what do you think? Maybe shop can grind them, but at $10/ea it might be better to replace, no?

So, I can do myself cutting (with neway cutters) and press in guides (have press, can heat head, etc). Just need shop to fix threads

 

The old valves look dirty but you should be able to clean them with a bead blast, not sand blast.  Measure the overall length and measure the diameter several times in the area where they go through the guides.  If they are in spec I would probably use them again.

You should have numbered the valves and shim/buckets if you are planning on reusing them.

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You should have numbered the valves and shim/buckets if you are planning on reusing them.

Buckets numbered of course (with springs/washers)
But I will be replacing guides and cut seats. So, shims will need to be done from scratch.

Thats why I am thinking new valves to give most "meat" possible to account for seat cutting.

The valve stem needs to be cut to compensate for seat machining.  

You might want to call around to see if you can a shop with a centerless valve grinding machine.  It literally takes 3 mins to resurface the face and stem with one of these machines, and good shops won't charge you an arm and a leg since it's so fast.

Ed, manual put's this in bolt: "Do not grind valves". Because it may cause other issues like keepers coming loose, etc. 
I put order for new valves, yes, might be little over what shop would charge but if new valves will allow me not to shorten them - thats a win.

I found a shop that sounds like they know what they are doing. Once I get parts I will take it there.

Yesterday I checked pistons/rings. All look good and in service range. Ring gap is about 0.35 on border with "acceptable" but definitely not in "replace" range. Will go with honing. It's always easy to replace pistons and bore cylinders later if needed. My goal is to get engine assembled now.

Thanks to Nessism clutch dumpers were replaced quickly and easy. I am not a welder but it worked great.

 

Cylinders don't excite me. But I will run it as is. Rings is within specs, pistons within specs. I don't have bore gauge, but according to rings - it's OK-ish.
However, deposits on cylinder 4 did not come out.

Anyhow, I made a decision to run it as is. If I ever wanted to - pistons seem to be readily available and boring is not a problem. All can be done "on a bike"

 

That Ceracoat color is really nice. If it holds up then it’s a real winner... project is looking good.

wrote:

That Ceracoat color is really nice. If it holds up then it’s a real winner... project is looking good.

 

Still not 5 days yet for testing. But I did honing on cyclinder block yesterday. So, oil got on paint, I moved block around, cleaned with brake clean afterwards, etc. - no issues with paint.

Then so far so good.

I haven’t honed and cylinders yet but did inquire into the process. It was recommended that you use white cotton tee shirts with trans fluid and continue to wipe the cylinders down till the tees come out clean.