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I can't help you with this one, I'm no painter. However these things in isolation often look better when it's all back together

 I don't like wearing respirator either.

You probably won't get much exposure doing those parts but, My trade is in Industrial  coatings , I know a lot of "old school" spray painters" I know of two that have died from the effects of being lax with respirators and another that's going blind because of paint fume exposure. I've worn respirators all my life, I don't like wearing them either, but I like breathing without an oxygen tank.... Just saying

I do understand issue. Probably not a big deal when outside and windy but for urethane I did wear it.

anyways, it’s done now. Not horrible by any means but could be better for sure. Once all together it will be fine

It's not 10ft job, more like 6ft  Question to painters. If I need to touch up places (not visible, for protection). Can I just use paint out of can (no hardener) ?

 

Your question isn't entirely clear ?  If you used a paint with hardener, and you use that paint again,  you must add hardener, if you mean can you touch up from a spray can, then yes, but it probably won't match. If I was going to touch anything up further down the track, I'd use the same paint you've already used and lightly sand and clean the area you wish to touch up...
If you are going to use a spray can still lightly sand and clean , then spray. The light sanding will allow the touch up paint to adhere better..

No, I need to touch up now. Those places cosmetically not important(not visible), just where I didn't get with a gun. I can touch them up with a brush, more for protection.
Since I need very tiny amt of paint it would be hard to mix, don't need reducer there for sure, but wondered if it going to dry without hardener.
 

I have a load of eye droppers that I nicked from the chemistry teacher at school. They're pretty good for mixing small amounts of paint and hardener.

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No, I need to touch up now. Those places cosmetically not important(not visible), just where I didn't get with a gun. I can touch them up with a brush, more for protection.
Since I need very tiny amt of paint it would be hard to mix, don't need reducer there for sure, but wondered if it going to dry without hardener.

 

As I said, if the paint needs hardener, then use hardener, it won't cure properly without it... If you're going to brush it on you'll still need to mix about 100mm, about a fifth of a pint,  better to have a touch too much than not enough..
When painting frames, you generally start painting the hard to get bits first...

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When painting frames, you generally start painting the hard to get bits first...

So I did. I even painted upside down, starting from hard to reach areas. Then flipped and painted rest. But somehow there is places where I simply couldn't get in with a gun. Or if I did - I would put paint all around and get runs.

Even "unbuilding" wheel takes time. Started with mocking up what I have. Standard setup on a picture. I am going to use dual-brake setup from 650C. For bottoms, disks, calipers, etc need to be mocked on a spoked wheel. Hope to check fit today before continuing.

 

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When painting frames, you generally start painting the hard to get bits first...

So I did. I even painted upside down, starting from hard to reach areas. Then flipped and painted rest. But somehow there is places where I simply couldn't get in with a gun. Or if I did - I would put paint all around and get runs.

Yes, its fiddly alright, I usually suspend the frame , with a length of wire, off a rafter in the shed, so I can spin it around easily to get the hard to get to spots.
I suppose another way would be to brush paint the hard to get spots first , then spray everything else, I've never needed a brush though, but I usually use spray cans, not a spray gun...

CSR fork bottoms with dual brakes do fit and spoked hub looks to be working OK. Going to proceed with this setup