TOPIC:

That tab shown on the left in your photo fits into a spring on the carb rack frame.  The spring takes care of the play.   Do you have this spring?

The spring allows for a bit of movement when you twist the throttle open hard, so maybe you won't bend anything. 

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That tab shown on the left in your photo fits into a spring on the carb rack frame.  The spring takes care of the play.   Do you have this spring?

The spring allows for a bit of movement when you twist the throttle open hard, so maybe you won't bend anything. 

Got it. Yes, I have all the parts. I didn't analyze whole thing assembled, just noticed this and was wondering. Will leave it alone.

Decisions again. Once I decided NOT to touch starter clutch because it worked. And if replacing - whole thing needed. But doing it with motor on a bike will be PITA.
Decisions.. Should I just do it now and don't worry about it ever..
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/607684-kz650-...n-zr7s-part?start=12

EDIT. Actually, seeing price I think it's OK as is

 

I'm replacing the starter clutch completely in my 750 using one from the ZR7, it has 12 contact points instead of, I think its 3 with the early ones {I haven't pulled mine out yet} , seeings though the 650 is basically the same engine i'd imagine it would slot straight in, parts can be sourced cheap. Member Daftrusty did this mod on his 750, that's where i got the info. If you're curious send him a pm for details....

I think that’s where I got my list. I am just saying for $500 I am willing to deal with problem if it becomes a problem later. If it was like $200 I probably just do it now so I don’t have to do it later on a bike..

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I think that’s where I got my list. I am just saying for $500 I am willing to deal with problem if it becomes a problem later. If it was like $200 I probably just do it now so I don’t have to do it later on a bike..

I paid 100 aussie dollars for the ZR7 sprag clutch and parts, oil pump and gear, plus secondary shaft and sump, Should be easier to source in the US...., I'm in the same boat, engine coming apart soon, so I  wanted to make the mods while it was all apart....

12046-1032 sproket......... 131930-1012 one way assembly........ bearing same.... 3- 120po812 sproket bolts..... thrust washer and locking nut for the clutch. Stock set up check around check ebay Cheap Bike Parts, Partzilla. Less than 200 when I did it........... Like the idea of the ZR7 set up too if you can fine a nice used one.

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Regarding the carb gaskets, I recommend staying away from the hildebrandtgasketcompany  gasket guy on ebay.  Their gaskets are made from really thin material.

small update. Got those gaskets. Maybe they improved? 1mm thick, rubbery material. Feels good, looks like they will work 

 

All hardware plated and ready (for engine). Just waiting for order from partzilla and engine can be assembled
 

While waiting on order (takes forever) and shop (takes forever - probably going to take it elsewhere) - working or carbs.

Since I like to DIY as much as I can I figured why not try fix those choke plungers myself.
Took old rubber washer out, measured and ordered 6x6 piece of 75 viton from McMaster:
Viton Fluoroelastomer Rubber Sheet Chemical-Resistant, 6" x 6", 1/16" Thick  86075K22

Machined 2 piece tool to cut ID and OD. Making those washers is piece of cake.

Then I thought it will be PITA to insert washers back but no, just used small screwdriver and they went in easy. So, looks like it worked.

 

Sweet!  What thickness is the rubber? And please explain your process.  I see what looks like a punch tool but what about the smaller diameter tool?

PS: I've got a lathe in waiting your response.

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Sweet!  What thickness is the rubber? And please explain your process.  I see what looks like a punch tool but what about the smaller diameter tool?

PS: I've got a lathe in waiting your response.

Link to McMaster piece I got in my post above. It's 1/16 but I think it's just tad thinner like 0.1mm than original I measured. This is what they had. Next size will be too big.
According to MY measurements it's 1.8mm thick, 6.8 outer diameter, 1.95mm hole.
For tools - I made 2 punch tools where inner goes into outer so I can punch outer first, rubber goes in and then I punch with inner making it perfectly centered.
I used drill bits I had on hand so size was slightly off but it went in tight, should work good IMO.

HINT: To remove old ones - I used torch and they just come out burning. First one (scratched on picture) was because I was trying to use pick. To put new ones in - just start with one side, put it under lip and work your way around.