The reproduction caddy lights look great, even taped on. I have some fun options in the works, we shall see if this thing goes to insane level.works busy this week but hope to finish tub by the weekend.
I got the outside ready for body filler. Since 2nd jumped out on the test ride I looked into trans parts and just ordered a MRE undercut trans with the orient billet 2nd gear for pulling those fat mickeys.Really good guy communication from that crew !
The following user(s) said Thank You: Street Fighter LTD
TexasKZ wrote: Nice work straightening the mouth of that carb.
I wonder what the dude was thinking when he installed the rear end upside down??
It's been a while but the chain opening on the rear end isn't centered as I recall, so if the drive sprocket was on the wrong side the only thing you could do was flip the rear axle housing to get it on the proper side. I thought there was a negative to doing that but I can't recall what it was now and it's not that the drain plug is on the top.
So the rearend was designed with the chain on the right on the o.g. harley servi trans. To adapt it to fit this they simply flipped it over for the offset to work with the kaws offset for standard left side chain operation( when I pull apart we shall see if some sprocket shimming was done ). I am planning on making some fiberglass bolt on covers but honestly its made to run open, just not exposed. after cleaning I found some weep holes but they need to be improved as well.The rear will be two weeks of after work to get right I'm guessing now.
There used to be an old motorcycle shop in Milwaukee that catered only to working on Harleys. I seem to remember them working on some type of conversion using a Servi Car rear end and as part of the process they literally just flipped the rear end over to accommodate the left side drive sprocket. I don't have a Servi Car to look at but I think the chain ran on the right side of the trans and the offset was created by having unequal length rear axle tubes. The left side was longer, right was shorter. This centered the chain in the opening on the differential case. This was all a very long time ago and I could be mistaken on what they were trying to accomplish. There was some roadblock that they ran into when they did this but I can't recall what it was. The project didn't really interest me at the time so I didn't pay much attention to it. Sorry...
looks like wiseco piston kit added, all else stock looking to my novice eye ,so far but going to clean then take the head to the machine shop and start there then decide what follows.I was hoping for some more Ape parts inside but thats ok, I have a long list now but for low and mid range what size/setup are the gurus here recommending I'm looking ape goodies,with dyna electric box/kit for ignition. Is there a key measurement or something I need before I go any further on disassembly, other than watching the video on you tube again before tonights tear down ? Thanks again everyone !
Ok its 36mm intake and 30mm exhaust valves (stock ,yes?) and with some light cleaning I see bronze guides and seats. a light exhaust port ,untouched intake side.I will clean/ soda blast tonight and get some pics for any helpful insight. also adjustable cam gears up top, and I have not got to crankshaft yet. It appears with my limited tools(calipers) at the moment 72 mm bore and Im not sure on the piston kit manufacture yet(I thought wiseco but I'm not sure now). The jug had a manual cam chain tensioner so I believe its an early Z1 (not a later or J). Im still reading /checking/reading over here trying to learn the model and year..... ch.. ch.. ch ..changes...
the intake valve will always be the bigger size,the exhaust valve the smaller.
should be able to go to
under "900cc arranged by year" it will list the frame # and engine # spreads.by comparing to your engine or frame # you should be able to figure out the year of either.
skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!