Thanks for the responses/suggestions. I think a machine shop is in the future for those cases. Luckily only one bolt broke.
I cut a slit in the bolt to use a flat head impact driver on it, soaked it in liquid wrench, and put heat to the case. After some persistence, I only succeeded to brake the flat head bit and brake off one side of the cut bolt.
As a last desperate act I attempted to weld a nut to what was left of the stud but the only thing worse than the cheap MIG welder my buddy has are my welding skills. The weld failed with only minor torque. Luckily I didn't damage the matting surface. Covered everything with adhesive foil tape.
I agree with the last few posts, Streetfighter about see if others break, and specifically Matt's about threading a nut on and weld it to the stud on the inside. But first I'd soak it for days in penetrating oil. Once the nut is welded on after soaking, hit it with an impact gun/socket.
79 KZ650 SR
80 KZ1000 Z1 Classic
83 KZ1100 LTD
06 ZG1000 Concours
02 Trans Am ... not enough time
Mailman came through with the parts on Friday! Got everything required to put the engine back together, well at least as far as the parts are concerned.
Cleaned the case matting surfaces with acetone one more time and applied a modest coating of yamabond to the upper case. I've gotten to where I like to apply the sealer with the transmission out, in order to get to the surfaces between the bearings. After the sealer is on, I refit the transmission. I've the found the time it takes to fit the trans is a good proxy for the yamabond setup time.
It's a little late but does anyone know if there's a temp range for applying yamabond? It's been colder here in KC and I'm not sure if it's too cold. Or if there even is a too cold. The sealer seemed fine and went on like normal so I'm hoping everything's peachy.
Got the case haves all torqued down and didn't see too much sealer squish out so hopefully I got the right amount applied. The crank spins smoothly and the transmission shifts through all the gears.
Fit the oil pump next. The manual says to prime the pump by filling it with oil but a good bit of the priming oil seems to have wound up on the floor. Is that typical?
Popped on a new oil pan gasket and o-ring along with a new oil filter and the original drain plug and the bottom's all buttoned up.
I've read that greasing the gaskets can help. Has anyone heard or practiced this? I rub the grease into the gaskets, if nothing else it seems to help them stick in place on the engine when I'm installing the covers.
Flipped the engine over and installed the shifter mechanism and greased up bevel drive gears. The clutch went on simply enough. The existing plates and springs looked good so I reused everything.
The starter motor, gears, and clutch also went on without much issue. Everything torqued to spec.
I had been spending some time over the last few weeks cleaning and polishing the engine covers. The covers which came with the bike have some damage but I'm going to use them anyway. I've got 'em looking decent and I don't mind the look of covers with a bit-o-damage. Makes it look like the bike was well used and well loved.
All the covers, save the small round ignition cover, are back on the engine. Need to access the crank bolt to spin the crank so no sense in installing the cover only to have to take it off again.
Next I put the pistons back on. The piston pins looked a bit worn so I ordered new ones.
Always make sure the openings to the engine are covered to prevent parts from falling into the assembled engine.
A little engine assembly grease on the pins and everything slid into place. Installed new snap rings and only had one ring pop off and fly away. Small victories!
The rings and cylinders looked good so I'm going to reuse the rings and leave the cylinders as they are. Only cleaned some buildup from the top of the pistons.
Next to the cylinder head studs. I cleaned up the threads of the studs and chased the case threads, M10x1.5 for reference. The studs threaded in by hand just fine. Should I attempt to torque them down, like a reverse double nut method? Or just leave them hand tight?
Now I need to clean up the old gasket from the bottom of the cylinder and it'll go on next.
While installing new piston clips to replace the clips removed during disassembly, one of the clips flew out and I couldn't tell where it landed. Fearing the worst, I spent a fair bit of time searching for the part around the crank and inside the engine.
Very close to deciding to remove the oil pan I walked away from the problem to take care of some housekeeping around the garage. I needed to pour out old oil from a drain pan in order to make room for when I get the frame back.
Imagine my relief when the outline of a clip started to become visible in the oil drain pan. Thank God I didn't have to tear into the just assembled engine.
After a bit of a delay, the powder coater came through and everything looks great.
Set off straight away after work yesterday and installed the new swing arm bearings from All Balls.
Packed the rollers full of grease and pushed the seals into place. Next to install the pivots. Had a bit of overspray in the holes which required some dremel work to remove but they went in easy enough.
Positioned the swing arm and installed the center stand. Then it was time to call it a night.
Popped the stearing bearing races into the freezer before dinner. Will get back to the build after MotoGP qualifying is done this morning.
Good progress today. Got the front end installed with new stearing bearings and fork seals, slid the motor in the frame (with help), assembled some of the battery box and popped that in (less of a struggle with empty frame), and removed the valves from the head for cleaning.
The neck bearings went in okay but the stem roller was less straightforward. How to press the inner race onto the stem?
On advice from a post, I kept the old inner race and tapped on it with a punch and a hammer. Working one side down a couple taps then moving to the other.
Then packed it with grease and installed the stearing neck.
I've been neglegent in documenting the progress of the rebuild so the images are mostly of completed steps.
Good progress on the Ltd this weekend. Got most of the mechanical and electrical parts at least positioned. Got the master cylinders disassembled, cleaned, rebuilt, and reassembled. Mounted the handlebars, levers, and controls. Lubricated and mounted the clutch cable, seems to work smoothly.
Also had a chance to clean up the front wheel, replace the wheel bearings, and repack the spedo drive gear.
The calipers will come back off for cleaning and maybe rebuilding. The rear wheel is also coming back off for cleaning and for new bearings.
Still need to hook the stand springs but the stands are in place.
A lot of what's left is electrical
I'm sure I'm going to have some issues with the spliced main harness. The Vetter fairings and bags required cutting into the harness and I suspect the wiring diagrams in the service manual will no longer be totally useful. So if/when issues arise I'm going to be spending a lot of time chasing connecting with a multimeter.
Oh well, that's a problem for future me. Man I don't envy that guy.