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I cannot thank you enough for that explanation. I need to pick up a multimeter since all of mine are old and tempremental. I was looking in my book and it was not really all that helpful. Installed new Jet on carbs. 90 jets with 15 pilot. So its back to stock. As for the timing. I'll attempt that this evening. Here is a video of me rambling a bit from earlier that just finished uploading.

Before trying to adjust the cam chain tensioner be SURE to read how to adjust it (see below). The crankshaft MUST be turned to a specific position before trying to adjust it.

Also, the engine will be prone to idle roughly until a dynamic carb sync has been performed. The bench sync is a good starting point, but it assumes all cylinders are exactly the same. This is rarely true because there are several variables, such piston ring and valve condition differences, etc., that may cause the cylinders to pull slightly different vacuum. When the sync is off a little the engine can idle quite roughly. Another factor that will cause rough idle is minor vacuum leaks at the carb holders. I read that you found them to look like they're in good shape, but the only way to tell for sure is to test them becasue they will develop tiny hairline cracks at the mating surfaces which cannot be seen when they are on the engine. At the bottom of this reply is the test.



You should check the carb holders for leaks. They will eventually develop tiny cracks in the mating surfaces between the holders and the cylinder head that can cause them to leak at idle. These cracks cannot be seen with the carb holders in place. I suggest you try the following. Get the engine warmed up and temporarily set the idle as low as possible without killing the engine (lower than 900 rpm if possible). The lower the better because with the idle very low the slides are nearly shut and the vacuum inside the carb holders is at its highest. Then spray carb cleaner around the carb holders, especially where they mate with the cylinder head and where the carbs attach to them. Carb cleaner works best for this test as it doesn't leave an oily mess with WD40 or evaporate so quickly that it is not drawn into the leaks as can happen with propane or starting fluid (ether). If the engine dies or reacts to the carb cleaner, you need to replace the carb holders. Carb holder leak related problems are noticeable at idle but generally don't have much impact when riding because the throttle is open. If you find you need to replace the carb holders soak the screws with Kroil for a couple days before attempting to remove them, and use JIS standard, NOT Phillips, screwdriver bits, and this will greatly improve the odds that you will not break or strip a carb holder fastener as so many have done. Let me know if you need info on JIS bits, I have a good link for making your own at no cost.

Ed

I actually created some JIS bits thanks to your first posts when I joined the forums ED. So again thank you. I picked up a multi meter and will attempt to set the points up correctly. Oh and to clear up a common theme, yes I do have a service manual for a KZ650B1. From 1977 to 1978. Its a Haynes manual and for most things I've found it pretty helpful. But when it comes to trouble shooting I find that the information provided by fellow forum members to be more accurate and helpful in the long run. Thank you for providing info on cam adjustment. I

I agree. A temporary fix it to use Permatex on the mating surfaces. I don't use it for ANYTHING else. Also a hand impact will take care of those stubborn bolts and screws.
Steve

I'm laughing a little bit as the gap is way off. I'm measuring when the timing mark is at the T.

The gap may or may not be way off, but the gap at at the "T" mark doesn't matter one way or the other.

You set the gap when the points are at their widest point regardless of the "T" or "F" mark position. it's only important that the gap is set when the points are at their widest gap. That gap is what controls the dwell (how long the coils charge).

After that's done properly you set the timing by rotating the points plate until the points just break continuity at the "F" mark. That timing is what controls when the coils will fire. Ed

Gaps are set to .35mm on both. Now moving onto checking continuity.

Continuity set up and timing done hopefully correctly. I found that since I am not replacing the point that 35 was a good base until it came time to do very small ending adjustments to the gap is slightly bigger on both

Cam chain tensioned. Was very loose I'd imagine. Started alright once. After that it is suffering from run away idle. It will start and the rpm will shoot up to 4 or 5k then the engine will die. What could this be caused by? I set up the points and timing to the Instructions provided by Ed. Retensioned can chain via the automatic method on the bike also by the instructions provided. Checked consenders for issues. Both fine. Have carb gauges hooked up. They are a bit out of wack but nothing nearly as bad as before rebuild. I just need the bike to idle a little so then it can warm up and I can manage to work on it. If anyone would like to hear it attempt to run or has any advice on what could be the problem. I can upload a video of me running it.

I assume you have the choke on when you start the bike; that is normal for a cold start. However, once the bike starts if the choke is left on the engine will race until you turn the choke down some; just gradually reduce the choke and see if the rpms drop. Once the engine is warmed up you should shut the choke off. Ed

Yes. I do use the choke to cold start it. But. The moment it fires the engine goes directly to 5K. Then will stay there for a second or two. Drop a little and stay high then attempt to die, moving the choke down will result in the bike to die immediately. Use of the throttle will cause the bike to die immediately even after the engine is warm.I took the coils off the bike and got them tested, they tested fine. Spark checked all Wires and they tested fine. Could a bad battery cause this type of inconsistency? Just got it to Run with vac gauges. Minor differences in pressure although these cheap gauges pulse rather bad so its a very general reading.

After more fiddling I have come to the conclusion that earlier the bike was not getting enough electricity.. In fact it sounded much stronger after cleaning the contacts on the coils and letting the battery charge for a bit. I started the bike with it still plugged in and in fact found a vacuum leak or at least what I think may be a vacuum leak. With the seat open and battery charger plugged in, is started the bike and it did exactly what it did before with me using the choke. But this time as it decelerated when I fiddled with the choke to bring it down from 4k it backfired. And when it did backfire I saw white smoke shoot out of the left hand side near the intake. So even though I have tested this so many times now and never had a vac leak now I figure there is one.


Will post a followup after I try to do a little homemade fix to the rubber. If this does not work I may order new boots.