TOPIC:

Great work, not sure about the fenders, more reminiscent of a solo bobber then cafe racer.

kzspartan wrote: Great work, not sure about the fenders, more reminiscent of a solo bobber then cafe racer.

Yep, this bike looks great, love the fact the the OP didn't use the stock tank, the Z tank gives it a great balanced look, the guards don't work at all with the rest of the bike, in my opinion...

I think the fenders look great. Probably more true to original cafes than not. I can't see Brit rockers raising hell around the UK without them. You can only get so hard core without being a little practical.

It has just the right elements of the cafe, tracker and bobber all rolled into one.

I also like how he's kept some of the original elements that are usually the first to be replaced like the exhaust.

GPzMOD750 wrote: ..... I can't see Brit rockers raising hell around the UK without them (fenders). You can only get so hard core without being a little practical.
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Amen! I rode without a front fender on my BSA for a few days - what a mess! Ed

It may be meaningful to show what the owner originally brought to me as the target finished product. Some adjustments were made along the way as is usually the case, but you can see he had a clear vision of what he wanted. That was very helpful.

You did a great job executing it. Now get it finished and running. We'll christen it an honorary KZ and make it BOTM.

If you do a image search on "rocker motorcycle", "rocker racer", etc. All the authentic vintage images show almost 100% "mud guard" usage.

Patton wrote: Are the plugs wet with fuel after an unsuccessful starting effort? Which would indicate that the carb pilot circuits are providing fuel that's being sucked into the cylinders.

Here's one cleaning method:

Remember to wear eye protection when spraying carb cleaner, because the spray always backfires. Always.

Good Fortune!

I carefully read all the notes on the images Patton with regards to what to plug and where to spray. It really would help to have a third arm. Two hours and a can of carb and choke cleaner later, i cannot make anything come out of the enricher circuit or the pilot circuit. My confidence about having a quality 'seal' on the areas to be plugged is low. That coupled with a far less than perfect seal with the straw on the carb cleaner can. Maybe those things don't need to be perfect to get some flow out of the pilot or enrichner ports into the carb body. The lack of flow would certainly explain the fact it won't start. I was able to drop a carb wire down the brass tube and each of the openings in the carb bore. So what is the next step? Strip them down and back into the ultrasonic cleaner and jack up the heat?
Other house keeping. The baby bottle will flow like crazy into a pan on the bench with just gravity.
It was a good thought to remind me to put on safety glasses.

Patton wrote: The carb enrichener circuits should also be functional.

And the bowl passage must be clear so as to provide fuel for the choke pick-up tube.

The enrichener circuit (choke circuit) is designed to best function when the throttle is fully closed.
So it's best to not even touch the throttle grip while attempting to start a cold engine.
And it's futile to frantically and repeatedly twist the throttle grip open and closed while cranking over the engine in a attempt to start it.

Good Fortune!

Bowl passages are clear. No I did not touch the throttle grip when trying to start the bike. I did see a few bubbles at the pilot circuit port in the carb bore on Friday but could NOT repeat that today. It is really tough to try to match the carb cleaner can straw to the brass pilot circuit fuel pipe. Hard to believe there is much pressure that makes it into the pipe without some sort of tubing seal to act as a coupling.

Patton wrote:

ajsfirehawk wrote: . . . pulled the pods off and shot starter fluid in, took off running light a bat outa hell. Possibly the paper filter on my baby bottle is clogging the passage of fuel to the bowls? . . . .

To just rehash some basics ---

Ability to run on starter fluid but not otherwise indicates an imperfect pilot circuit. And that for whatever reason fuel mixture isn't being provided by the carb.

Even with a perfect pilot circuit, sufficient fuel must flow into the carb, through the float valve, and into the float bowl.
A restrictive in-line filter can prevent fuel from being furnished to the carb, same as a kinked fuel line, or for whatever other reason why the carb thinks you're out of gas.

Be sure to use the type of in-line filter designed for gravity flow (such as for lawn mowers), and not an in-line filter that's designed for use with a fuel pump.

After an unsuccessful effort to start the engine due to lack of combustion, the spark plugs should be wet with fuel. Which indicates that the starter circuit and/or pilot circuit are providing fuel mixture from the carb that's being sucked into the cylinders.

And of course, remember to not touch the throttle grip when attempting to start a cold engine.

Good Fortune!

The plugs are not wet after an unsuccessful attempt to start the motor. I am using a gravity fed style filter which flows freely into a container on the bench. The carbs bowls are filling and the floats have been verified to be in spec with the clear tube test.

Final note, in the link you sent me to the 85 GPz carb exploded diagram, it shows caps over the pilot screws. I do not have caps over the pilot adjustment screws.

Those caps were a import emission control requirement. To keep dealers and users from making adjustments, at least not easily. Completely unnecessary especially since gas formulation has changed so much over the years.

The idea is to blast carb cleaner through the tiny passageway into the pilot jet, in order to clear any obstruction in the tiny passageway.

Even without blocking the air jet, needle jet and idle jet while spraying into the main jet, if the tiny passageway is clear, enough spray should go through the tiny passageway to reach the mixture screw.

Here's a method I think might work to determine whether the spray is getting through the tiny passageway and on up to the mixture screw.




If spray is exiting through the open mixture screw hole, then screw the mixture screw back in, and re-spray to see if the spray gets into the carb bore.

Could try using toothpicks as temporarily jet plugs in order to concentrate the spray force through the tiny passageway.

Good Fortune!

Yet another exercise -- blast backward.







In this spraying backward exercise, spray exiting though the jets (air jet, needle jet and main jet) is to help clean the small passageway and show that spray is passing through the small passageway.

An ancillary benefit -- the hopefully -- is to help clean the orifices in the top of the carb bore just underneath the pilot screw.

Good Fortune!