79 KZ1000 winter build

Z1E carries cover bolt sets.

Click > www.z1enterprises.com/Bolt-Set-Stainless...KZ1000-7980-449.aspx

Click > www.z1enterprises.com/Bolt-Set--Engine-C...900-KZ1000-3467.aspx

Good Fortune!

I have seen those cover bolt sets. In hind sight, would have been cheaper to buy one. Bolts are getting crazy expensive.

At this point my only major purchases are exhaust, a headlight, all the wiring components, and maybe a new chain setup. Might be done this summer.......

Got the motor in last night. I was advised it was possible with the head and cam cover on, and yes it is, but man it's tight. Ended up having to remove 3 exhaust studs. I taped up the frame pretty good and ended up with only minor scratches in a few places. Now if I can figure out how to get the carbs in the new boots, I'll be in good shape. I'm also working on getting stuff together for the wiring. It's becoming a lot harder to get stuff done with the nice weather.....

Long time and no post. Well after what seems like way too much time, I actually got to ride it a couple times. I ended up getting a badass lithium battery, so I rebuilt the battery box to fit lower by the chain. I built the box for the electronics and rewired the entire bike. I built a bracket for the headlight and blinkers. New bars, new cables, etc. Got the seat covered yesterday. Kick start only also.










The Eastern Beaver power box and relay setup is sweet man.




The other switch beside the regulator is a 3way for the blinkers. Up right, down left.

Bad news is the damn tank is seeping fuel at the rear. I noticed it yesterday morning. I took it off last night and as soon as I loosened the bolts for the rear mount it started dripping pretty bad. Well I wanted a bigger tank anyway. That's what you get for buying a swap meet gas tank.

Other bad news is I've pretty much confirmed the motor is wore out. After I got it warmed up I did the "kick start" compression test. About 6 kicks per cylinder, range from 90 to 110. Vacuum readings without syncing the carbs ranged from 12 to 16. I set the point gap and can not time it to the F mark (no more adjustment). It kicks the first time everytime with the choke on and seems to idle ok off the choke but pops out of the exhaust. On the road it seems to run pretty decent, doesn't really bog anywhere and revs like it should. I was going to mess with the carbs a little bit more before I lost the tank, but I think I'll take a couple weeks off and rethink the plan.

Are you not using any air filtration?

2wheeltom77 wrote: ...Other bad news is I've pretty much confirmed the motor is wore out. After I got it warmed up I did the "kick start" compression test. About 6 kicks per cylinder, range from 90 to 110...I set the point gap and can not time it to the F mark (no more adjustment)...

Classy build!

Before resorting to engine dis-assembly, would assure valve clearances are within specs, and perform compression tests, both wet and dry versions to compare the results.

And perform a leak-down test.

Would also double-check the timing issue. Might be erroneously using the wrong mark. And with a strobe-type timing light. And maybe the point heels have worn down.

Good Fortune!

Reply to 650ed:

I have 3 K&N and 1 off brand that came on the bike. I've cleaned and reoiled them but need to replace them once I get it running right. I actually test rode it without the filters around the block a few times. I know on my CX500 the air filter changes mostly affected higher rpm operation, and sort of assumed they wouldn't affect idle that much on this bike. Could be wrong though.

Reply to Patton:

After thinking about it more today, the timing issue may be related to worn out points. I'll admit I haven't messed with points much. I believe the actual gap is larger than measured because of the "pitting" or wear, which in theory would make them open sooner, causing it to read advanced. Right now it's reading close to the 1/4 2/3 at idle, and advances way past the marks when you rev it. I'll replace the points, bench sync the carbs and set the floats, and try it again. I can also try a wet compression test as well.

Thanks for the replies.

Cool build! Looks like your doing some top notch work. I'm running the same battery and so for I'm impressed with the way it holds a charge. Time will tell over all performance but as for now, I'm good.

Les

Procedure is to first set gap on each set of points. "Dress" the contacts with fine sand paper if needed, assure the contacts are ultra-clean.

Next step is to set the timing on each set of points. Use a strobe type timing light to align the F mark with the case mark.



Assure the timing advancer is functioning properly by watching it move quickly back and forth as rpm is varied by blipping the throttle. Lube the advancer.



The advancer should NOT be rusty like this:







Points at the 3 o'clock position serve to ground and unground the coil firing inside spark plugs.

Points at the 9 o'clock position serve to ground and unground the coil firing outside spark plugs.

Opening of the contacts is the event that causes the coil to fire.

Good Fortune!

I just want to 100% clarify a question I have on the pilot system on these 29mm carbs. On the 29s, the only adjustment is with the air screw on the outside, other than changing the size of the pilot jet itself....correct? I was looking at what I think was a 28VM tuning manual that talked about adjusting the pilot jet mixture with the bowl removed, and started wondering if I missed something when I took my carbs apart.

BTW, I've looked at several diagrams and breakdowns posted on this site of the different carbs. I just wanted to make sure I have this right.

New points and timing set right made a big difference. Idles pretty good, but still has a pop out the exhaust from time to time. Rode it about 20 miles today.....man it was nice to get it on the road. One step in the right direction anyway. I'll eventually sync the carbs the right way and I'm thinking that will take care of the rest.