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TOPIC: Doctorot's '78 KZ1000 build

78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 30 Nov 2011 00:23 #490771

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531blackbanshee wrote: follow the manual and take it slow and double check.

you will be fine.

ask questions if you need to we will help.

why isn't the chain under the main cap? :unsure:

or maybe it si and you jsut have it folded back over :S .

it's trippin me out :silly: .

keep us posted .

leon


Yeah its under the cap i just have it folded over. thanks for looking out though.

I have been mulling over a new problem for the last 2 weeks. Enter exhibit A:
The tailpiece I made does not do the original line of this bike justice. It looks like a damn game of pick up sticks. This is because when i was shaping the plug i molded it to the frame for strength and ease of mounting. However the frame does not line up with the tank. This didn't matter in its stock for because the huge stock seat hid the frame and didn't follow its lines. I have been tinkering with different ways of fixing this problem, mostly by trying to adjust the angle and height of the tail in various ways. I havent been able to fix the problem visually.

So heres the plan;

I'm going to remake the tailpiece. You may think I'm anal, a perfectionist, tell me its not that bad, that I should just use it, but this is really going to bug the crap outta me :pinch: The tail is such a huge part of the bike visually, that I feel it needs to be better.

I also want to modify a new upper frame to help with the lines. here is a p-shop mock-up
So when the new seat it put on there the lines flow much nicer. The bottom of the tank aligns with the bottom of the tail all the way back, and the angle on the top of the tail is pretty close to the angle coming off the back of the tank. Much more aesthetically pleasing.

My buddy will be doing all the welding, for safetys sake. The shock mount plate will be extended , same with the tube it attaches to, the new rails will sit about a half inch higher in the front and an inch higher in the back. I will add bracing.

My main concern it that it will still be safe with the frame mods. I am open to opinions and advice (as long as they aren't for keeping the old tail.)
-Vic
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Last edit: by DoctoRot.

78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 30 Nov 2011 05:24 #490801

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You could have your seat foam thicker at the rear of the pan and taper it thinner towards the front of the pan, this would give you an option to manipulate the final build lines. That pan you made looks really good!

Doug
1977 KZ1000A1
1977 KZ1000A1 (Superbike Project)
1969 Chevrolet C/10 Short Fleet

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Dec 2011 07:56 #491070

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Zedone wrote: You could have your seat foam thicker at the rear of the pan and taper it thinner towards the front of the pan, this would give you an option to manipulate the final build lines. That pan you made looks really good!

Doug

Yeah I thought about compensating with the seat foam, but it would just look weird. I even cut up some extruded foam i had to try and model it. Wasn't cutting it. Im not going to worry about that for a while.

I have a new problem. Finally got some time to work on the engine, put the cases together, got the bolts that go around the crank in just fine. Went to tighten the 6mm bolts that go around the perimeter of the crank, and had the first one break off in the case, tried the second one and it broke too, but i was able to get it out with vice grips.


What the hell? The manual said to tighten to 78-95 ft lbs. that seemed high to me, is this a misprint? or are the bolts just crap? Its not the torque wrench either, I borrowed a very nice craftsman one that was just rebuilt.

Any solutions on how to get this bolt out? I have tried easy-outs before and never had them work.

A friend of mine told me that I was going to do everything twice on this bike. Its turning out to be truer and truer.

I found some replacement bolts online, does it matter if it is fully threaded on the 93mm bolts?
-Vic
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Last edit: by DoctoRot.

78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Dec 2011 08:18 #491071

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Your manual says 'inch lbs' NOT 'foot lbs' ;)
Michael
Alvin, Texas

1982 GPz750
1977 KZ1000A
1978 KZ1000A
1982 GPz1100
1975 Z2A

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Dec 2011 09:52 #491076

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Mcdroid wrote: Your manual says 'inch lbs' NOT 'foot lbs' ;)


Doh! Bummer :(

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. 02 Dec 2011 10:28 #491080

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79 KZ1000ST
Past:
Many.

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Dec 2011 11:37 #491089

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Looks like they are properly torqued, now just back them off a 1/4 turn.

Bike is looking really good, btw!

It looks like you have a little bit sticking out there, you could try to tap it back out with a small punch. I've heard something about using left hand drill bits or something, too?

I'd be really carefully doing anything near the case surface there, though. Take it slow.
1977 Kawasaki KZ1000 : Street/Strip
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. 02 Dec 2011 16:57 #491135

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79 KZ1000ST
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Many.

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Dec 2011 17:20 #491138

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When using reverse drill bits, there's often no need for an extractor.

Would heed tachrev's caution about being extra careful not to mar the mating surface.

May be worth considering EDM.



Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Dec 2011 18:24 #491148

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Patton wrote: When using reverse drill bits, there's often no need for an extractor.


That's what I was thinking of! :pinch:
1977 Kawasaki KZ1000 : Street/Strip
Build Thread

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Dec 2011 18:45 #491154

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tachrev wrote:

Patton wrote: When using reverse drill bits, there's often no need for an extractor.


That's what I was thinking of! :pinch:


Am thinking "left-handed bit" and "reverse bit" are interchangeable terms meaning the same thing.

Customer: Got any left-hand drill bits?
Clerk: Yes, we have reverse drill bits.

Customer: Got any reverse drill bits?
Clerk: Yes, we have left-hand drill bits.

:lol:

Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Dec 2011 19:12 #491155

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Yep it definitely, says inch lbs not foot lbs. guess i should have paid more attention to this guy when i was a kid
But I did find some replacement JIS flange bolts so once those get here I'll give this a go again.
-Vic
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'80 kz750G project

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Dec 2011 19:36 #491159

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You're lucky! When I was a kid this (see picture below) was considered educational TV. Guess which one in the pic I decided to emulate; correct - the one with the fuzzy face. :)

Attachment howdy.jpg not found

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Attachments:

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Dec 2011 19:48 #491161

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aka 650zip :lol:
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Dec 2011 23:37 #491196

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Why cut off the pinch weld ? :huh:

Is this just for looks.
84 kz 700 a1
82 kz550 ltd

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 03 Dec 2011 19:17 #491331

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ready2ryde1985 wrote: Why cut off the pinch weld ? :huh:

Is this just for looks.


Yeah, that and weight reduction :lol:
-Vic
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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 05 Dec 2011 07:47 #491616

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Made a little progress tonight, I removed the bolt I broke with a left hand drill bit (those are great!) and got the engine cases put back together, sans the two bolts I broke. Shifted through all gears, everything seems to be in order. I disassembled the oil pump and checked the clearances, everything checked out. I guess the oil pump gasket doesn't come in the standard bottom end kit, so Ill have to wait until that comes. But I did get my oil gate installed.
-Vic
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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 05 Dec 2011 18:51 #491735

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can't wait to see how this project turns out.. nice work
85 GPz 750

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 15 Dec 2011 22:27 #493308

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Havent had much time to work on anything lately, but i was able to work a little on the engine last night. I got the oil pump put back together and in the cases, got the oil pan back on, and the filter. a couple of months ago I sent my clutch basket to APE to have them install their clutch kit. I opened it one time to check it out and put it away. I guess they didn't oil it, cause after sitting on the shelf it now is rusted a bit. :pinch: Should I wet sand that off, does it matter? it is mostly on the outside of the clutch basket I also picked up this stainless engine cover bolt set at a swap meet recently. It says to use anti-seize with the bolts, so i picked up some of that. But then I was thinking, some of the bolts call for thread lock, will the anti-seize cancel out the thread lock?
-Vic
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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 16 Dec 2011 00:38 #493330

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when you use stainless against stainless (stainless nuts on stainless bolts)you definately need to use anti-sieze.
when using stainless bolts in aluminum i don't use anti-sieze or threadlocker.

but if you are going to use threadlocker use the blue loctite in aluminum.

it is like it creates a barrier between the aluminum and the bolt and prevents them from gaulding.

thats been my experiance.

ymmv.

leon
skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!

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kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/294594-frame-bracing?limitstart=0
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