531blackbanshee wrote: follow the manual and take it slow and double check.
you will be fine.
ask questions if you need to we will help.
why isn't the chain under the main cap?
or maybe it si and you jsut have it folded back over .
it's trippin me out .
keep us posted .
Yeah its under the cap i just have it folded over. thanks for looking out though.
I have been mulling over a new problem for the last 2 weeks. Enter exhibit A:
The tailpiece I made does not do the original line of this bike justice. It looks like a damn game of pick up sticks. This is because when i was shaping the plug i molded it to the frame for strength and ease of mounting. However the frame does not line up with the tank. This didn't matter in its stock for because the huge stock seat hid the frame and didn't follow its lines. I have been tinkering with different ways of fixing this problem, mostly by trying to adjust the angle and height of the tail in various ways. I havent been able to fix the problem visually.
So heres the plan;
I'm going to remake the tailpiece. You may think I'm anal, a perfectionist, tell me its not that bad, that I should just use it, but this is really going to bug the crap outta me The tail is such a huge part of the bike visually, that I feel it needs to be better.
I also want to modify a new upper frame to help with the lines. here is a p-shop mock-up
So when the new seat it put on there the lines flow much nicer. The bottom of the tank aligns with the bottom of the tail all the way back, and the angle on the top of the tail is pretty close to the angle coming off the back of the tank. Much more aesthetically pleasing.
My buddy will be doing all the welding, for safetys sake. The shock mount plate will be extended , same with the tube it attaches to, the new rails will sit about a half inch higher in the front and an inch higher in the back. I will add bracing.
My main concern it that it will still be safe with the frame mods. I am open to opinions and advice (as long as they aren't for keeping the old tail.)
You could have your seat foam thicker at the rear of the pan and taper it thinner towards the front of the pan, this would give you an option to manipulate the final build lines. That pan you made looks really good!
1977 KZ1000A1 (Superbike Project)
1969 Chevrolet C/10 Short Fleet
Zedone wrote: You could have your seat foam thicker at the rear of the pan and taper it thinner towards the front of the pan, this would give you an option to manipulate the final build lines. That pan you made looks really good!
Yeah I thought about compensating with the seat foam, but it would just look weird. I even cut up some extruded foam i had to try and model it. Wasn't cutting it. Im not going to worry about that for a while.
I have a new problem. Finally got some time to work on the engine, put the cases together, got the bolts that go around the crank in just fine. Went to tighten the 6mm bolts that go around the perimeter of the crank, and had the first one break off in the case, tried the second one and it broke too, but i was able to get it out with vice grips.
What the hell? The manual said to tighten to 78-95 ft lbs. that seemed high to me, is this a misprint? or are the bolts just crap? Its not the torque wrench either, I borrowed a very nice craftsman one that was just rebuilt.
Any solutions on how to get this bolt out? I have tried easy-outs before and never had them work.
A friend of mine told me that I was going to do everything twice on this bike. Its turning out to be truer and truer.
I found some replacement bolts online, does it matter if it is fully threaded on the 93mm bolts?