Brake mounts are finished. I started planning out to do the pocketing cuts and shit started getting way too complicated so I just eyeballed em, having a CNC here would be awesome. I'm not a fan of tooling marks unless they are super even (like a CNC), so I blasted the pockets and gave everything else the brushed treatment. I noticed one of the forks is weeping fluid so rebuilding those will be up next.
Got the paint cut and buffed. I burned through a tiny spot on the tail but it polished out well enough that I'm cool with it, also some flaws in the stripes on close inspection but not bad for first time doing that or the polish.
First Permanent ride the Z1R since Dec1977 (220,000km) as of June 2015
Second permanent bike 1989 FJ1200 my work horse, growing on me, great bike.
Third ride is now the Frankenstein GPZ1100, now if only I can ride three bikes at once?
What media did you use on the pockets.... 90 grit AO or did you use glass? I wanted to machine pockets also on my rearset adapters but decided to punch them right through for the same reason you mentioned... no cnc here just a Craftex CX600 (almost identical to a Grizzly G-0704) The hangers look really nice Doc... nice clean lines. I made custom hangers by hand using 7075 T6 but their just flat .250" stock, I plan to remake them similar to what you have done using .500-.750" 7075 T6. What type of aluminum did you use? I just (finally) bought a half decent compressor (18 cfm @ 90) but am waiting to buy a blast cabinet. The rearset adapters are in the process of being wet sanded/polished and aren't finished yet... keep up the excellent work,
1977 KZ1000A1 (Superbike Project)
1969 Chevrolet C/10 Short Fleet
Ok time to get back on this thing. I have been distracted by work, school, the holidays, traveling...blah blah blah. I ended up doing some mods on a buddies kz650, polished the cases, new rotors, and new seat cover. body work is out for paint currently. Im jealous, this thing runs sweet.
Anyway I have made a list of stuff I need to do to get the 1000 back on the road.
> rebuild the forks.
> Re-install head. (I had to take of the head to drill and tap the emission ports for some set screws to plug them, also there were two stripped screw holes that i didn't see the first time around. so that needs to go back on.)
> Install carbs
> Finalize battery tray/ electronics position
> plumb the brakes
> install new chain
Battery/electronics trays finished and rubber mounted! gotta pull them off to massage a couple small spots and then paint. With the sidecovers on it will form a pretty big storage space which is something I loved about the stock bike. I can easily fit a sixer in there
Also got the head back on and the motor buttoned up.
Rebuilding the forks turned out to be a bit of a debacle. when I got the dust seal off there was deep pitting on the stanchion tube which is what caused the fork seal to leak. It was surprising considering the condition of the forks otherwise. Tracked down a new set and am waiting on new bushings before putting them back together. Fork legs will get new paint.
Because I remade the caliper mounts with them on the inside of the fork legs I had to remake the fender mounts. They will get paint soon as well.
I splurged on these RS34 carbs this summer. I got them test fitted to check my cable length, and to figure out a support for them. Any suggestions where I should start with jetting? motor has Wiseco 1075, mild cams, street port and polish, and free flowing header.
On the pinstripes,.I was advised by a painter friend to start with one colour (in your case the red) Paint everything red.Then mask off the red pinstripe,paint everything black,mask that off then go for the silver. Remove the masking and you have all your pinstriping done. This way,the pinstripes retain their brightness as they are first on the undercoat.
I was a bit dubious about it,me being a first time painter at the end of a very long project build, but it actually worked out very well.
Anyway,nice build ,nice build thread.Well done and good luck with the carb jetting.
more than one way to skin a cat. I think the way you described is better for two reasons 1. much less time and materials in masking. 2. instead of creating high points where the lines are it creates recesses, which are easier to fill with clear and cut and buff for the "flush" look.