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TOPIC: Doctorot's '78 KZ1000 build

78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 31 Jul 2012 10:27 #539710

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I don't think you should have used straight up lemon juice. I used 6 parts water and 1 part lemon juice and got very good results. As for the pitting, most likely it was already there due to moisture sitting in the carbs over the years. Or maybe do to manufacturing. But the lemon juice, especially the strength you used, will etch a little and bring out any pitting that already exists. You should be fine however. One of the main jet tubes and float towers were pitted bad on one of my carbs. Was concerned about the main jet seating properly but seems to work fine. Just as long as you didn't boil any of the rubber parts you should be good to go. I used carb cleaner and compressed air after the boiling process as well. Use Patton's pilot circuit cleaning method to spray the carb cleaner for that circuit. Also, clean the choke circuit as well with carb cleaner and compressed air. Don't forget the choke circuit passage in each of the bowls as well. Might as well go the extra mile while you have them apart. Good luck.
Current project 76 KZ900 (This was a Vetter model)
76 KZ900
81 XJ550H SECA (Current Project)
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74 Z1900
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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Aug 2012 17:56 #540308

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KZJOE900 wrote: I don't think you should have used straight up lemon juice. I used 6 parts water and 1 part lemon juice and got very good results. As for the pitting, most likely it was already there due to moisture sitting in the carbs over the years. Or maybe do to manufacturing. But the lemon juice, especially the strength you used, will etch a little and bring out any pitting that already exists. You should be fine however. One of the main jet tubes and float towers were pitted bad on one of my carbs. Was concerned about the main jet seating properly but seems to work fine. Just as long as you didn't boil any of the rubber parts you should be good to go. I used carb cleaner and compressed air after the boiling process as well. Use Patton's pilot circuit cleaning method to spray the carb cleaner for that circuit. Also, clean the choke circuit as well with carb cleaner and compressed air. Don't forget the choke circuit passage in each of the bowls as well. Might as well go the extra mile while you have them apart. Good luck.


In retrospect the lemon juice did seem too harsh, but even then it took several times to remove the film the pinsol left. In the future i will dilute it. The pitting that is there is almost not noticeable, except on the pot metal parts. I'm going to follow your advice and clean all the circuits one more time before I put them back together, just to make sure they're good.
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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Aug 2012 23:51 #540393

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With smoothbores, the pilot air jet is easy to miss.



Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 15 Oct 2012 21:06 #554069

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well its been a while since i got to post some progress in here. I got my frame back from the straightener and was able to get Eric to help me out a bit yesterday. I fit all the gussets and he welded them in. It started raining on my way back home so everything rusted a bit.
We also started on the shock mounts, unfortunately we only had enough time to get one done. eric turned a new mount, and changed the design slightly. It now has a bolt going into it. cleaned up the design a bit, I think it looks good, gotta get a cool fastener for it though. I still need to fit the two cross braces and two braces for the steering head. Hopefully I will get to that this week. feels damn good to be getting some progress done after sitting idle while it was at the straighteners

-Vic
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'80 kz750G project

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Last edit: by DoctoRot.

78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 16 Oct 2012 10:37 #554174

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DoctoRot wrote: We also started on the shock mounts, unfortunately we only had enough time to get one done. eric turned a new mount, and changed the design slightly. It now has a bolt going into it.





an aluminum washer machined out so that an allen head is countersunk in to it would look very nice.

glad you got some progress made,keep us posted.

leon

skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 16 Oct 2012 11:01 #554183

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The gusset work turned out good. Havent followed this build much but it is looking good so far
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/390747-1977-kz1000-new-life
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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 16 Oct 2012 14:53 #554203

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So many cool things - great work on the composites, nice details like the spedo/tach faces, and a killer job on the frame bracing! Overall excellent eye for detail! What a great build!!!

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 16 Oct 2012 18:46 #554234

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Where did ya get the rpm gauge? i kinda want to get me a set for my kz1000

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 16 Oct 2012 20:28 #554253

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Thanks guys, im just glad i finally have it back so i can keep working on it.

I like the counter sunk washer idea Leon, i think i'm gonna try and make it to the fastener store and see what they have.

Renninger wrote: Where did ya get the rpm gauge? i kinda want to get me a set for my kz1000

the gauges are from Speedhut. I asked them if they would work with a Dynatek ignition, they said yes. Word of warning though; they are made for cars, and while they claim they are water "resistant" I don't know how well they will resist water. However I took one apart and devised a scheme for waterproofing them myself for peace of mind. I should get to that soon, and when i do i will post what i do.
-Vic
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'78 kz1000 LTD long term project

'80 kz750G project

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 17 Oct 2012 10:31 #554312

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kk, that would be great :) water to isn't the big of a deal...i live in Arizona i don't even remember what rain looks likes

DoctoRot wrote: Thanks guys, im just glad i finally have it back so i can keep working on it.

I like the counter sunk washer idea Leon, i think i'm gonna try and make it to the fastener store and see what they have.

Renninger wrote: Where did ya get the rpm gauge? i kinda want to get me a set for my kz1000

the gauges are from Speedhut. I asked them if they would work with a Dynatek ignition, they said yes. Word of warning though; they are made for cars, and while they claim they are water "resistant" I don't know how well they will resist water. However I took one apart and devised a scheme for waterproofing them myself for peace of mind. I should get to that soon, and when i do i will post what i do.

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 27 Oct 2012 00:13 #555964

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just a quick update. I took your advice Leon, and got some stainless counter-sunk washers with some allen head screws. looking good. I love small details like this that no one will never notice except for me and die-hard KZ fans. Should get the other shock mount welded in this weekend, plus the rest of the bracing and some other random tabs and such.

-Vic
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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 27 Oct 2012 01:52 #555978

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damn straight !!!!!!!!!!!!!

that looks very nicely finished :evil: .

leon
skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!

billybiltit.blogspot.com/

www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/325862-triple-tree-custom-work

kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/294594-frame-bracing?limitstart=0

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 27 Oct 2012 02:09 #555982

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If possible,anytime you have a pivoting or an area I call "Threads In Bearing", try to have no threads in places that can move. The threads can flatten, making for excessive play, affecting handling.
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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 29 Oct 2012 00:10 #556174

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unfortunately I couldn't get to the welders house today, but i did get all the remaining braces fitted and prepped to be welded. I fit this brace, then it occurred to me that i would no longer be able to use the airbox. I was planning on using it in the fall and winter, as it rains alot here (seattle) and i plan on riding the crap outta this thing when its done, rain or shine. Should i put the brace lower, in the middle, or modify the airbox? the lower position might be in the way of the chain. the brace in this position seems like it would do alot to help chassis flex.
-Vic
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'80 kz750G project

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 29 Oct 2012 00:13 #556179

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I wouldnt mess with air box....need to work around it.

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 29 Oct 2012 00:33 #556181

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4TheKZ1000 wrote: I wouldnt mess with air box....need to work around it.


+1
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 31 Oct 2012 15:58 #556575

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ok i had to go with a smaller diameter tube and i fit it just under the airbox, i guess you can't follow sanctuary frame bracing 100%.

On a different note, i got a killer deal on these ZRX forks. going to try and do a fork swap with custom triples and the like.


I have gotten a copy of Alibre design and have been teaching myself some 3d designing in my spare time. first up will be making an axle to accept my KZ wheel, then hopefully a triple tree to retain the stock geometry. So far this is what i got, i haven't figured out how to do threads yet, but i have only used it for a couple hours so far.

-Vic
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'80 kz750G project

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Nov 2012 02:42 #556761

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had some time to mess around in alibre tonight. here is my attempt at a top clamp, i havent added the pinch points yet. i tried to copy the KZ and ZRX clamps as close as possible while giving it some of my own flavor. The ZRX forks are 5 mm shorter than stock so i added that to the drop to maintain ride height. Im gonna post up the numbers in case anyone sees a mistake.
the geometery is as follows;
fork center to center: 206mm (stock ZRX)
offset: 60mm
drop: 23.5 (stock is about 18.5mm)
i have found this to be very entertaining, not as hard as i would have expected either. Sshould i take the time pocket the bottom? is it worth it? it will probably add cost to the machining of the part. both the KZ and ZRX clamps are pocketed.



-Vic
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'80 kz750G project

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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Nov 2012 03:41 #556767

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the zrx forks use a single 10 mm pinch bolt but i have seen plenty of clamps that seem to be using 8mm or two 6mm bolts which should i use? how deep should i thread them into the clamp?
-Vic
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78 KZ1000 build (I'm learnding) 02 Nov 2012 06:46 #556774

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I pocket the bottoms and some tops, depends on how thick they are. I use a single 8mm bolt tapped at least 2 times diameter on gullwings and 2 bolts on the flat trees, more for appearance than a need.

Les

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