1980 E-2

Still no pics, sorry everyone. Guess I'm going to have to get me a USB reader...

So, the Jugs are back on the case and the head is put back together. I'll be installing the idler gears and cams and all, ASAP. My boss has been graciously letting me work on my bike at work, so I can spend the whole day working on it, and using all the fun tools at the shop!

I also picked up some 1 1/2" exhaust tubing to make my exhaust. Just need a bender to get things the way I want them. I guess it's really good that there is a muffler shop around the corner from work huh?

I sat back to rebuild my carbs... Yeah... That didn't go so well... I stared at all the pieces and scratched my head for about 30 minutes and then put everything away. When I took them into work to show the mechanic helping me, he said, "You REALLY did take EVERYTHING apart!" HEHEHE Yep! But it's always so much easier taking things apart, isn't it?

More updates when I have them. I am SO going to make the relay ride, God willing of course.

Pictures are a good thing right? Well, I finally got some! Thanks to a buddies phone camera.


I got the engine MOSTLY back together. Just need to put in the timing gears, set the timing, check my valve clearances and bolt the head on. Then I can shoe horn it back into the frame.






It's still not quite as low as I would like it to be. To be honest, if I would've known then what I know now, I would've tried to get a police bike. That being said, I'm still very much looking forward to what this is becoming. And the great thing is that I can always change it right?

One thing I'm very happy about is the seat:


Thanks Jim. This one is much more in line with what I was looking for. And it feels so much more comfortable than the stock one I had. Oh, and I also like how the Sportster shocks are 2" shorter than the stock shocks are. I feel much less like a wishbone at Thanksgiving when I sit on my bike now.

Still have to fab up where I want the forward controls to be, and mount the exhaust, but I'm getting there.

Took the day off of work to work on my bike. Have I mentioned how much I love my boss?

The first thing I had to do was bolt down the cams. How does something so simple become so complicated? By the threads coming out as I tried to torque down the bolts on the cam caps! The 3rd bolt I snugged down, just didn't want to stop twisting. I never thought 12 ft lbs was a lot... Helicoil to the rescue!!!
2nd attempt-- this time, the first bolt wouldn't stop twisting. The threads just came out with the bolt.

3rd attempt and 3 sets of threads that won't hold a bolt. I call over my buddy and he takes a look at the threads in the rest of the holes. He tells me that all of them are probably going to do the same thing. The PO who rebuilt the engine, WAY over-tightened the bolts.
I spent the rest of the day drilling out the rest to put helicoils in too. 16 in total. I should be able to do a helicoil in my sleep by the end right?

12 foot pounds? My manuals call for 8 - 9 foot pounds so 12 sounds way too high. Which book are you using? Ed

Using the FSM. I left it at work, next to the engine. I could've sworn I read it right, but I can of course always be wrong. I will totally re-read everything tomorrow though.

You may have read it correctly. I seem to remember some discussion on this board about an error on the cam cap torque in one or more of the manuals. Ed

Searching through the forum I found a post by you, from a bit back:
"KZ250LTD wrote:
650ed wrote:
KZ250LTD wrote:
650ed wrote:
When working on the bike always follow the torque recommendations shown in the Kawasaki service manual using quality torque wrenches of the appropriate scales. (i.e. don't try to use a foot pound torque wrench to tighten to inch pound settings). This will prevent you from becoming too familiar with Time-Serts or Heli-Coils. Ed


Except for the recommendations that are wrong


That's why I specified the Kawasaki Service Manual as opposed to Clymer, Haynes, or some other aftermarket manual. Obviously I can't speak for all manuals, but none of the torque specs in the KZ650 Kawasaki Service Manuals I have (3 different ones) are wrong. If there are known torque spec mistakes in the manuals for other models perhaps KZRIDER can create a forum in which to list them. Ed


As TexasKZ mentioned above in some of the KZ1000 FSM's the torque specs for the cam caps are too high. Manual states 12ft-lbs, should be MAX of 90 in-lbs (7.5ft-lbs). A few of us have learned this the hard way


12 ft lbs. Yikes! The KZ650 manual calls for 95-113 in lbs. I've always set mine at 100 in lbs with no problems; but I'm sure if I tried 12 ft lbs I'd be buying a timesert kit. Maybe KZRIDER can make a stickey or Forum group under "Technical" where these errors can be documented. Ed"

Well, since I already drilled out all the holes for the Helicoils, they will all have brand new threads and be installed to the correct torque. Thanks Ed. You're saving me from myself!

Helicoils installed. All brand new threads, just waiting to fulfill their purpose in life. What a wonderful thing! I had planned to get everything installed and to check my valve clearances today, but the mechanic who was helping me out couldn't come into work today. In and of itself, no problem, I can put everything back together myself, but what I was hoping for his help on was a trick he was going to teach me to check valve clearances without having to bolt the head on to the engine. You see, when I removed the buckets from the valves, I ACCIDENTALLY forgot to label where they all came from. So It's pretty hit or miss as to me picking the correct one for each valve. I really don't want to install everything, and then have to try to change the shims on the buckets... No, I didn't get the special tool to do it, and I'm kinda broke, so I couldn't afford to get it anyways. I tried to do it on my own, but I couldn't seem to get the cam to line up right for me to measure correctly. And it is soooo not the easiest thing in the world to turn by hand... Any tips?

Also, seeing as how my leg in the relay is 3 weeks away, I decided that trying to cut the frame and lower the rear end would probably not be the best idea right about now. I still feel like the ride height is right about there, but I do like the feeling of being more "in" the bike, as opposed to riding on top of it; so it may be something I do later. But for now, getting it back together and running is the priority. And who knows, I may come to really like the way this bike rides. I can't wait to find out!

I can't really afford to keep taking days off of work to do work on the bike, and working on it for 4 hours while work is open on Saturdays is not going to get it done in time.... As of right now, I still think it can be done. I don't know how, but I look forward to finding out.

Did some more engine work this weekend. Bolted the head on and made the mistake of not labeling which valve my buckets and shims came off of, so I am going to have to figure it out. I figure if I measure all the shims, and then check my valve clearances, I can then put the right shims in the right place. Easy enough right? I thought so, until my engine decided not to want to turn over... HMMMMM.... My chain is seated properly, I have the 28th pin where it should be, and my tensioner is in place with the idler gear on top... The ratchet will move from about 12 O'clock to about 3, and then it wants to hang up on something. I can't see anything impeding it, the gears move freely, and it's in neutral...
I'm going to take the cams out and try turning the crank to see if I have freedom of movement first, then try bolting everything back into place, again.
Ah well, it's these set backs that make the accomplishments so worthwhile eh?

Do have the buckets and shims installed before rotating? do not rotate with no buckets and shims you can do damage to the cam, buckets etc. Sound like it will be fun to sort out. :ohmy:

Yeah, the buckets and shims were installed before I tried to rotate it. I did however notice that 1 of the shims came out. Guess I popped it out somehow when I was installing the cam. Thanks for reminding me. I had forgotten to mention that.
I didn't force anything, and when I felt the resistance, I stopped. But I will definitely make sure it's back in place before I proceed. Thanks for catching that mate.

Hope its something simple! The only thing that pops to mind is mistimed cams which would mean valve/piston contact but it sounds like you took your time so I doubt that is the problem. All the best on sorting it out!