1982 KZ750 N1 SPECTRE Bobber build

I have a stock KZ 1000 battery box in my shop that u would be welcome to if u pay postage for it.Then u can fit it any way u like.bj

That's a tempting offer but I would like to stay away from stock as much as possible. Plus I'm not going to be using ANY of the stock wiring so I don't think the stock battery box would work as well.
My first idea was to just cut the box out of diamond plate and weld it together. BUT turns out diamond plate is very expensive so that why I'm looking for alternatives.

So I guess my question is... Is there anything similar to an ammo box that is some type of metal and that I could use to not only serve as a battery box but ALSO house the small amount of electrical items that are required to run the bike?

scooby doo lunch box BTW were you powering that thing off a computer power supply?

arldavey wrote: scooby doo lunch box BTW were you powering that thing off a computer power supply?

HAHA yes I was considering using the power supply casing. I stripped it out because i had one laying around. I was going to repaint it and see if it would work but I didn't like the look of it either. Now that I am re-wiring the bike, I've decided to scrap that idea.

So far it looks like it will be easier and most likely cheaper to just fabricate something out of sheet metal. I've never done this before so that's why i am hesitant, but I'm sure it cant be too hard. Any tips would be appreciated!! what gauge steel, ect.

On an unrelated note, It sounds like the drive shaft has a clunk now. Its not extremely obvious but it doesn't happen with the stock Shocks/springs. I have a feeling that my homemade struts are too short and are causing the shaft to bind somehow. My question is this: Does the drive shaft have to be 100% level? The stock springs do not make the driveshaft level either because the bike sits much higher and the shaft is slanted in the opposite direction. Is there an easy fix to this? Such as something simple that can be removed or modified easily.... Because I would like to keep the bike as low as possible. Or do I have to get long enough struts so that the shaft is level?

Does anyone have any experience with lowering a shaft driven bike? I need any info I can get because I cant find much online about the shaft driven bikes.\
Does the shaft have to be level?

this is my old bike 82 virago i lowered it about 4in no problem

I have an '80 E-2, and I'm going to drop it down as well. I'm going to use some 290mm shocks cause I don't think I could handle the struts for that long. I don't really see a problem with dropping it like you did, there should be plenty of room for the axle to do its thing. Have you changed the gear oil, or lubed the axle where it meets up with the tranny? Greased the swingarm? Does it only happen when you put it in gear, or does it happen when you try to start it up?
Also, regarding your previous posts, have you gotten it to rev right? I was thinking that you might have a significant vacuum leak. Have you checked the seats of the carbs? Are any pinched? While you have it idling, spray some WD-40 around the engine side of the carbs and see if there's a change in revs.
Or have things improved since you've gotten your filters?

Chaotic Reason wrote: I have an '80 E-2, and I'm going to drop it down as well. I'm going to use some 290mm shocks cause I don't think I could handle the struts for that long. I don't really see a problem with dropping it like you did, there should be plenty of room for the axle to do its thing. Have you changed the gear oil, or lubed the axle where it meets up with the tranny? Greased the swingarm? Does it only happen when you put it in gear, or does it happen when you try to start it up?
Also, regarding your previous posts, have you gotten it to rev right? I was thinking that you might have a significant vacuum leak. Have you checked the seats of the carbs? Are any pinched? While you have it idling, spray some WD-40 around the engine side of the carbs and see if there's a change in revs.
Or have things improved since you've gotten your filters?

My next step is going to be checking the gear oil and getting things lubed up. Im sure I will find out more as soon as I get everything taken apart. The clunking sound does NOT happen when the stock springs are on the bike and the ride height is higher. Its only when the bike is lowered with the rigid struts that the clunking sound occurs. It doesn't matter what gear it is in or whether or not the engine is running, every time the rear wheel rolls I hear the clunk.

Maybe your bike likes shocks and is trying to tell you something??? Na, all kidding aside, is the clunking coming from the front of the drive shaft, or the backend by the wheel?

The clunking noise is coming from the front of the shaft, NOT the wheel end of the shaft. It seems to be coming from right where the shaft meets the engine or maybe even further forward than that. But, Like i said it doesn't happen when the bike is sitting up higher and the shaft is at a different angle. Im just trying to sort this out WITHOUT getting longer struts cause the ride height now is right where I want it and if i go a few inches higher it will change the entire look of the project. My goal for this bikewas really to get it as low as possible without running into any clearance or mechanical issues, but it looks to me like that's exactly what happened. haha

For the vacuum check I took the carbs off and removed the boots. I checked the inside of all the boots to see if they were cracked or leaking. They seem to be in good shape and i sealed them to the engine with a little silicon gasket maker. I don't think they are leaking but I haven't tried the WD40 test to check for sure. Ill have to try that. The carbs are not using any vacuum lines at all. They are all capped off on the carbs and the stock airbox and vacuum valve from the top of the engine are gone. I have still not gotten filters yet... hopefully they will help alot though when i get them installed

Since it's coming from the front, it might be a good idea to take the rear wheel off and inspect the shaft. Taking the swing arm out and looking at where the shaft and tranny meet. I'm wondering if your shaft might have come loose from the coupling a bit and the clunking is it re-engaging???
And while it's out, lubing it up pretty good with some hi-temp grease and making sure everything connects back up properly will help to see if you do have a problem with the connection or the tranny, or the shaft itself. It could be as simple as it not seating properly and it needing to just be slotted back in.
Also note that I don't think your swing arm has a nipple to lube it either, so it would be a good idea to do that while everything is out too.

I'd also be careful about running the bike too much without an air filter of some kind in place. The last thing you want is for something to get sucked into your engine. :pinch: