Testarossa's 78 KZ1000 Fighter Build

Painting a two tone isn't any harder than painting a single, it's just more coats of paint. The hardest part is masking off the stripes and keeping your lines straight and parallel. If you have access to a V8 engine stand, you can make a quick and dirty bracket to bolt the steering head to the stand. Twirl the frame around till your hearts content

You ain't kidding about masking off those stripes. I thought that it would be easy. Hell they're straight lines. When you start trying to keep the line straight on top of a compound curve, wowee! Good idea with the engine stand. I have one, but its about 250mi away in Kerrville. Maybe I can pick it up on the way back from vacation. That's only a couple of weeks away.

So I'm surprised that nobody has commented about my trial paint job. What do you guys think? Keep in mind that the swingarm will be black, and the engine cases will get painted black with polished edge fins and polished covers.

I love that paint scheme. u said u would like it a shade or 2 darker.
Well how about this.

Look at this link. there is some good info from a regular on this site, although he dosent hang hear anymore.
www.cyclemadness.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=2088&page=1

Hell YEAH!! Thats the color. I added that to the favorites. Basically a blow by blow of my paint job. Perfect. Thanks again bud. I guess that I can't use the grinder for that part.

You did a very good job on your trial paint job Josh. The stripes on the tail look straight, and your tank stripes are only off a tiny bit. Don't get too down on yourself, it takes some practice (like everything). You'll get it though, just take your time. It's easier for a novice DIYer to to do a good job once than it is for an apprentice professional to do a good job a couple times a day.
Mark, I'd say the guy that did that bodywork has done it before, It looks like great work

No, no grinder work here bro.
as soon as i saw your stripes i just knew Wards bike was the 1 for u. .
Aris69 sure does do some fine work.

Ok fellas, I got the bike all broke down today. I have another question for the paint guru's. I have loads of little stuff that will be painted semi-gloss black. Is it better to do a single stage or basecoat/clearcoat for little things that won't get bodywork.

Single stage for sure. I used to use a semi gloss epoxy based primer sealer called DP90 made by PPG on things like black bumpers and windshield wiper arms. Its good, durable paint. I'm sure you could find something similar in another brand if the PPG products aren't available

Thats perfect Adam. I don't relish the thought of painting primer, base and then mixing clear with a flattening agent for each little item. Also the nearest paint store to me is a PPG jobber.

Also do you have a recomendation on what paint line to use from PPG. I'm dumbfounded when it comes to paint selection. Too many choices. A coworker has painted with Shopline b/c it's the cheapest line that they sold. His paint looks good with some amount of orange peel that could be dealt with by a good cut and buff. I don't know how well this Shopline stuff lasts. What paint would you use from PPG? I will save for the good stuff if it is worth the expense. I have also read good things about SPI primers and clears. They claim to be universal, in that you can use them with any urethane base. I have yet to find a SPI jobber, but havn't looked too hard. Everyone on www.autobody101.com raves about their universal clear. Any experience here?

If you are going to buy from your PPG jobber, just go with the Deltron line of urethane paints. I don't think you need to spend the money on something like the Vibrance Collection. If you want to mix and match base and clear you certainly can, just as long as it's the same paint material (urethane, polyurethane, waterborne....ect). And if you want to mix and match to try and save some money, go cheaper on the base coat then splurge on the clear.

Orange peel is a function of your technique more than it is the material. That said, you don't want to lay the clear so heavy that it "self levels", cause you're guarenteed a run (or more!) The more expensive clear with have better base chemicals that will give you a more durable surface and a deeper wetter look to it as well as provide some marginaly better UV protection of the base color.

That's some quality advice there Adam. Thanks again. Now tell me why that Porche ain't shiny. Doctor heal thyself? :evil: