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sounds like a solid plan.

it should be pretty danged nice by the time you get her all done.

congrats on the case split .

leon

531blackbanshee wrote: sounds like a solid plan.

it should be pretty danged nice by the time you get her all done.

congrats on the case split .

leon

Thanks. I think I just began the most time-consuming section....well almost. Polishing that engine is going to take some time and elbow-grease. I will definitely need advice making sure everything is lined up correctly when putting it all back together, as the manual isn't very specific on the transmission reinstall. The way my manual says to reassemble it (upside-down), I won't be able to go with my plan of rebuilding it in the bike. Once the cases are back together, I will put it in and finish reinstalling the pistons, clutch, etc on the bike. When I get home from work later, I will work on getting all the shafts out of the cases so I can clean them up a little easier. There's no going back now! LOL!

shoot man you won't have no trouble!

we build banshee lower ends the same way,upside down on a wooden box on the bench.

no real reason not to build the top end at the same time either is there?

these pictures you have posted here will be a big help to re-assure you that you are installing everything correctly.

i always take pics of late model power valves when i am taking them apart to sleeve or bore and hone them.those pics are the only way i have been able to get some of them back together.i just do the machine work so it is not feasible for me to get manuals for everything i have worked on.

digital pics are a big help for re-assembly.

leon

531blackbanshee wrote: no real reason not to build the top end at the same time either is there?

I just figure it will be lighter, and less bulky, so I will have a smaller risk of scratching up the frame paint putting it back in before...though I may do the pistons first...in case I drop another pin from a needle bearing and have to split the case again. LOL...that would stink!

clutch wrote:

531blackbanshee wrote: no real reason not to build the top end at the same time either is there?

I just figure it will be lighter, and less bulky, so I will have a smaller risk of scratching up the frame paint putting it back in before...though I may do the pistons first...in case I drop another pin from a needle bearing and have to split the case again. LOL...that would stink!

ah good call there man .

leon

here is how the sanctuary guys keep from scratching up nicely painted/coated frames.





some vinyl or rubber tubing split lengthwise and slid over the frame,to protect it.


leon

531blackbanshee wrote: here is how the sanctuary guys keep from scratching up nicely painted/coated frames.

some vinyl or rubber tubing split lengthwise and slid over the frame,to protect it.


leon

Not a bad idea. I may have something laying around similar to that.

I got the crank shaft, transmission, kickstarter, and output shafts out of the cases. All that's left is the shift drum in the top half and the shift lever in the bottom. I think they will be out of the way enough to clean the cases up, so they may stay in.

I'm a little nervous about lining up the shift forks and transmission properly. How can you check that before putting the cases back together? Can you just click through the gears to make sure it's correct? My manual shows some great pics of the transmission gears, and how those line up, but without the shift forks...

Spent some time carefully reading the transmission section of the repair manual tonight. It briefly describes what gears the shift forks move, so I think I will have no problems putting it back together now. This weekend (possibly longer) will be spent cleaning and polishing the cases. I think at this point, I am well into the project, and actually 100% complete with the tear-down process (as long as all gears, bearings, etc are within spec). In any case, I am far less intimidated by tearing down an engine now, and plan to do this with ALL future projects.

EDIT: Scratch that 100% complete with tear-down comment...I almost forgot about the CARBS! LOL!

i could not tell exactly (from the pic) where the shift drum is located in the cases in relation to the forks.

but,


you should be able to put the shift drum in neutral.

with the trans laying in the lower case you should be able to lower the upper case down while you are looking to see that the forks slide into the slots between the gears where they go and if everything is lined up it should slip together.

if you have studs that your sliding the case down over you should be "aware" of the drag on them and the other things that "fit" together and you can feel as the all line up usually.

leon

531blackbanshee wrote: i could not tell exactly (from the pic) where the shift drum is located in the cases in relation to the forks.

but,


you should be able to put the shift drum in neutral.

with the trans laying in the lower case you should be able to lower the upper case down while you are looking to see that the forks slide into the slots between the gears where they go and if everything is lined up it should slip together.

if you have studs that your sliding the case down over you should be "aware" of the drag on them and the other things that "fit" together and you can feel as the all line up usually.

leon

The shift drum is in the top case, so the forks actually hang from it. As I put the trans back together in the top case (the way the book says to), it looks like it should be pretty obvious how it lines up. When I get to that point, I will let you guys know if I have any issues

I spent a little time in the garage today cleaning up the crank cases. I picked a few spots on each to test-polish them. I'm not sure if I was just going too fast, but I didn't like the way it turned out on some of the spots. Also, I don't think I possess the patience, skill, or desire to get all the little nooks and crannies to do the polish job justice. I'm considering repainting the cases, cylinders, and heads with black case paint, and just polishing all of the covers. I think this method will be more within my skill and patience threshold, and will still look decent. I actually saw a pic of an A7 on the page with those sweet torque mufflers (that the guy is not selling right now ), that has the covers polished. It has the stock paint on the cases, so it doesn't look amazing, but I think black would really set it off. Here's the pic:

A7 polished covers