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Question on the steering stem build date decal
- Kidkawie
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25 Sep 2007 13:33 #172800
by Kidkawie
1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
Question on the steering stem build date decal was created by Kidkawie
I finally have the 900 down to the frame. The bike is in untouched condition. How important is keeping the build date decal? I would like to powdercoat the frame for durability, but can't decide on whether to preserve that decal or not.
1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
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- patmann
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25 Sep 2007 13:55 #172806
by patmann
1974 900 Z1 modified to look like a LTD , some engine mods. But I still have all the original parts.
1977 1000 project bike
1972 H1 project bike
If pro is opposite of con, then what is the opposite of progress?
Replied by patmann on topic Question on the steering stem build date decal
PRESERVE IT !!!!!!!!
Post edited by: patmann, at: 2007/09/25 16:57
Post edited by: patmann, at: 2007/09/25 16:57
1974 900 Z1 modified to look like a LTD , some engine mods. But I still have all the original parts.
1977 1000 project bike
1972 H1 project bike
If pro is opposite of con, then what is the opposite of progress?
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- fastestz1
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25 Sep 2007 14:11 #172811
by fastestz1
Replied by fastestz1 on topic Question on the steering stem build date decal
how would one go about preserving it?
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- Mcdroid
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- Gone Kwackers
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26 Sep 2007 01:18 #172898
by Mcdroid
Michael
Victoria, Texas
1982 GPz750
1977 KZ1000A
1978 KZ1000A
1982 GPz1100
1975 Z2A
Replied by Mcdroid on topic Question on the steering stem build date decal
If you are powdercoating, I'm not sure what would hold up to the process...but a simple repaint would require masking the area. Oddly enough, if you are doing a restoration, the decal is what contributes to the validity (= value) of the bike.
Michael
Victoria, Texas
1982 GPz750
1977 KZ1000A
1978 KZ1000A
1982 GPz1100
1975 Z2A
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- Patton
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- KZr Legend
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26 Sep 2007 03:13 #172903
by Patton
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic Question on the steering stem build date decal
Here'a an extract from this
link
There are many ways to mask parts that need to be protected from the coating. Silicone rubber masks, high temperature tape, Teflon tubing, magnetic metal masks all work well. One of the really unique things you can do with powder, especially on a one at a time basis (versus a production line) is to coat the whole thing. Then selectively blow off the areas to be masked with a fine tipped air nozzle. I have used this method many times, and is a lot easier than picking off adhesive tape masks after curing! If you screw up, you just blow the whole thing down and re-coat. It does require some practice / experience, but it sounds much harder than it is.
link
There are many ways to mask parts that need to be protected from the coating. Silicone rubber masks, high temperature tape, Teflon tubing, magnetic metal masks all work well. One of the really unique things you can do with powder, especially on a one at a time basis (versus a production line) is to coat the whole thing. Then selectively blow off the areas to be masked with a fine tipped air nozzle. I have used this method many times, and is a lot easier than picking off adhesive tape masks after curing! If you screw up, you just blow the whole thing down and re-coat. It does require some practice / experience, but it sounds much harder than it is.
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Kidkawie
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26 Sep 2007 10:00 #172948
by Kidkawie
1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
Replied by Kidkawie on topic Question on the steering stem build date decal
Thanks, I go with paint.
What type would you recommend? I have a sprayer.
What type would you recommend? I have a sprayer.
1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
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- Kidkawie
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26 Sep 2007 10:07 #172950
by Kidkawie
1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
Replied by Kidkawie on topic Question on the steering stem build date decal
Patton:
"In order to use powder, parts must be able to withstand the curing temperatures of powder. This usually means 350°-450°F for 15-30 minutes. This pretty much rules out plastic substrates and things that might warp like cylinder heads."
I think they were reffering to metal areas that needed to be masked. A thin paper and plastic sticker would not hold up to these temps much less the cleaning process.
"In order to use powder, parts must be able to withstand the curing temperatures of powder. This usually means 350°-450°F for 15-30 minutes. This pretty much rules out plastic substrates and things that might warp like cylinder heads."
I think they were reffering to metal areas that needed to be masked. A thin paper and plastic sticker would not hold up to these temps much less the cleaning process.
1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
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