'80 KZ650 Battery Change

Since this thread is not a new member introduction, perhaps one of the moderators will move it to the electrical section.


In the mean time, randomly throwing new parts at a problem is not a very effective or cost-conscience way to approach a problem. If when pushing the starter button, the starter motor turns, there is nothing wrong with the solenoid.

If when pressing the starter button, the starter does not turn, the spark plugs are not at fault.

A logical and methodical approach will save time and money. Try downloading the tutorial at the link below, and give it a read.

www.kzrider.com/filebase-alias?view=down...t-diagnosis&catid=28

Personally, I would first load test the battery to be sure it can supply full advertised power. Brand new batteries can be bad.
Next I would check to see if full battery voltage is reaching the coils, and slowly work my way back through the ignition system until I found the fault.

I am still new to all of this but I know the electrical system is still OEM excluding the headlight, battery and possibly the starter solenoid.
I was actually working from the cheapest and most common solutions I could find here or elsewhere in reference to other bikes before getting to the coils to test them. My plugs were pretty corroded when I changed them today. I also looked up the symptoms of the Regulator and about to do so for the Stator and Coils (since the stator and regulator are directly attached and one of the connectors appears burnt on the Stator side of the connections.)

Fortunately I have a multimeter so I can check the resistance but beyond that I am still at a bit of a loss, that being said the symptoms with my lights dimming while riding (as well as stationary now), the battery suddenly draining, engine stopping and some light sputtering I noticed a couple months ago (solved that but did not think of it until now) most things are pointing towards the R/R which ironically is what I made the first part of this post about alongside my battery.

Before I do anything else though I will definitely check out the tutorial link and test the battery again, but I still do not believe it to be the direct issue at this time due to a handful of factors including the kickstart or push start not being able to get the engine to start, just a low rumble from it trying to start with the push. No audible sound that used to accompany the electric start either.

I will still check the battery and coils!

I might help you diagnose the charging system. Burnt stator connector may be part of your issue.
I'll get cleaned up and grab some ice cream and help you figure out your charging system.

I just got done making dinner but I did take a closer look at the burnt connector. it looked a little melted, charred ONLY at the point where the wire meets the connector head (a female end) I will be sure to take pictures tomorrow since I don't have a garage and keep the bike under a cover. that being said, under the backside there are some exposed copper strands from the wire which could be either the issue or a side effect.

Put a volt meter across the battery and rev the engine to 5000 rpm.  You should see 14.5 VDC, or close.  Over 15 VDC and your bike is overcharging.  Anything less than about 13.8 VDC, and the charging system won't keep up with power consumption.

Unfortunately the problem is I cannot start the engine, so I cannot even test this although you may be onto something

A friend put a Lithium battery into his Honda GL500 V-Twin.
I guess he did not upgrade or check his charging system, as his bike died on a ride and almost caught fire!

The battery was mounted quite low, below and behind the engine.
Probably saved his bike from burning, the engine acting as a shield.