New to the bike world, but not mechanics

Thanks for the info saxjonz. Personally I would go go for the simple green before WD40, but I'll keep it in mind. I'll also keep the carbs in mind, but I still need to learn how to ride once I get this beast going. So I'm going to keep to the stock stuff for now.

Thanks Ed. Sounds like use it or loose it. I doubt it, but is there any kind of a coating out there that you could apply so it wouldn't rust even when not being used, and stand up to gasoline?

Hahahahahah, learn to ride? Well, I guess, like my father used to tell me, you will have to learn how to ride whatever bike you get. I think I said if you get those carbs clean. That is the trick. Sometimes they are just too far gone to bring back. My carbs were like that. If that is the case you will need a new set of carbs. The cheap bang for the buck would be a set off of an 80LTD which are 28's, they will make the bike wake up and could be had pretty cheap depending upon who is selling them. The second choice would be the 29Miks which are pretty hard to find for a good price and that price seems to be upwards of 500 these days, or you could get a set of cr29's and really get a very well made carbs. I would say Mikuni makes a better carb but they don't make smaller than 34 and unless you plan on doing some serious headwork these are not going to be the ticket. I would worry about getting the bike running first though and if you can get those carbs clean, they should be good to go. I heard of guys using pinesol to clean them up, heard it works really well. I dunno, once again, haven't tried that and hope never to have to clean out another set of carbs ever again. I trust you will do her right. Just don't take any shortcuts that will compromise the bike's integrity. I have seen enough hacked bikes for the rest of the millennium.

Oh, and I personally would never coat the inside of the tank with anything. It's only a matter of time before gas eats up anything. I have seen enough messed up carbs and pistons from those who think coating is an effective route. I have had no problems with any of my tanks once I got the rust out of them. You just have to clean them out really well and keep them up with fresh gas and either burn it out regular or use stabil. Whatever it takes to keep em from gumming up. Water is what destroys the tanks. It gets cold and condensation happens and this is what destroys the tanks. If tank is full of gas when you store them and fresh gas or better gas mixed with stabil then you will not have many worries and drain the carb bowls. I'm still betting on the fact that you will have issues with that petcodk. The pop metal garbage will fall apart. There are two hoses, the main one and the side L shaped adapter thing falls out. It did on my 79 and the 80 that I have. The 80 was in good shape too, I don't have time for poorly made solutions. Maybe it won't bother you to put something around it but for me, I couldn't do it. Pingel not only is solid to last a lifetime it is also a much higher flowing petcock than the stock one. I ride full throttle with my bike, it's just how I roll with her, I notice a big difference between this piece and stock. With the stock I find it starves for gas. You said you are just learning so hopefully this won't be the case but eventually you may take liberties. Kawabunga dude. Let the good times roll. 6311-AH & 6311-CH Fuel Valves
www.pingelonline.com/powerflo_application_frames.htm I am in no way representing pingel or trying to sell their products, just posting up what equipment I use and why. I also would never use anything but a dyna s plate and dyna green coils with taylor wires. Points are just way too much of a headache for me to deal with and they are not cheap so consider the plate a future investment in improving and not having to buy twenty sets of points over the years. Get a good fuel filter as well. This will make your life easier when you take in to account not having to tear in to carbs every few weeks to clean out that rust that will inevitably be found in your tankhttp://www.pingelonline.com/fuel_filters.htm The single in and out is what will do. These are things that after the years of riding I have learned are worth their weight in gold after taking the cheap way out and being frustrated with the results all the time. Get a set of the KN pods and don't look back. I saw a pair on Amazon for 100. I think that I have touched base with all the things I have learned now you can take this information and do with it what you will. I know it is a bite in the pocket book some of these little pieces but well worth it in the end.

Ya, just like learning to drive a new car I'm sure.

I think some one took some care when they put this bike away. The fuel valve was off, and carbs seemed to be emptied. I think the blown clutch line is what caused them to park it. I was advised by a friend to try gun cleaner for the carbs. It is great at dissolving all of the built up gunk and doesn't harm the o-rings. Pinesol seems kind of odd to me, but it could be worth a try.

I couldn't even imagine hacking things together on a bike, It's already not the safest form of transport and as you hack things together it becomes even less safe.

The other way to deal with the tank is to drain it and bring it inside. Then it won't get cold, so you won't have condensation, and all of the gas will be fresh for next season. You could even hang some desiccant inside some cheesecloth inside the take to really dry it out.

I'll keep an eye on that failure point for the petcock. I'm sure the stock one is going to be just fine for me for now. It even has a pretty nice filter built into it.

I'm really quite grateful for all this info because,I would have no idea who made any of the upgrade parts I may want in the future otherwise.

I don't know about the carbs on your bike, but on my 750 all of the over flow tubes were cracked so even when the floats would shut off, some gas would leak through the overflow tubes. I just got in the habit of shutting the petcock off a couple of blocks before I got where I was going until I resolved it. At first I tried fuel line hoses over the tube. Doesn't really fit though. Just get some JB weld and put a thin layer on there, let it sit, then do another coat the next day. I'd bet that would be your issue. Take a close look, all it takes is the tiniest micro crack and you're leaving fuel puddles wherever you park. Bike looks good though dude. Take your time, leave no stone uncovered and be careful learning to ride on it!

Thanks for the tip. I did some reading and it looks like that is a common problem for these carbs, and some people fixed it with solder or heat shrink tube. The heat shrink would be the easiest by far, but I would be worried about how it would hold up over time.