Kreem gas tank woes

I am on the fisrt stage of kreem tank clean -the 3 step process. and now there are 2 problems.

1. bottom of tank did not seal well, I guess the preasure from the weight of fluid leaked thru the tape. Does regular duct tape really work? any other methods to stop leaking?

2. I have no more solution and there are still some spots of rusting. What can i use now? naval jelly?

when I let the solution overnight it really did a good job of cleaning the crud and exposing bare metal. I have some Amonium Persulfate -I have this for etching printed circiut boards but I figure it would work since it strips copper on these pcb's. Any ideas?

hi don't know if this will help but i sand blasted mine then had the outside glassed, then did the cream coat
worked great for me

Muratic Acid.

About 3 bucks a gallon at the local Whatzit Hardware Outlet.

Do it outside. Wear gloves, goggles and long sleeves. Have a hose handy.

Dump in about a quart, swirl it around. Do the *Swirl Dance* about every 15 minutes for a couple of hours. Leave it in six or eight, better yet overnight.

Dump it out in a rubber tub. Flush out with water. Dilute the reddish-brown ick that was the inside of your tank well. Makes great weed killer.

Never heard anybody speak kindly of that Kreem Jazz. Seems it mostly good for jizzing up their fuel filters and pilot jets....

por motorcycle kit about 35 bucks I sandblast and use JB weld then the kit

pter, is Muratic acid come in a brand name? where would thery have it in the store?

At Lowes or Home Depot I think they keep it witht he paint supplies like thineers and what not. I have been known to be wrong before. I would just call and see if they carry it first. I used it on a tank last year and it worked sooooo good. The inside of the tank was better than new. I had the acid already and don't remember where I bought it. I have a lime stone gravel driveway so I poured it right out and the lime stone neutralized the acid.

What he said...

It's pretty universally known as what it is rather than any particular brand. Any counterpipple should know it immediately. The main advertised use is as a concrete cleaner/etcher.

"Muratic" is actually a solution of SULFURIC acid and water and water, %1.8 I believe. Hence the goggles and stuff.

Sorry, pterosaur.
Muriatic acid is Hydrocloric, not Surphuric Acid. You can pick it up in the home stores in the Swimming Pool Supplies.
When using acid, Always add the acid to water to dilute it. Never add water to full-strength acid. It will boil/spatter, and ruin your clothing/skin. Also don't forget the eye protection!

Funny, in my area Home Depot doesn't sell Muriatic but the local HW store does

Ooops. What he said.

Knew it was _one_ of those. CRS strikes again.

Muratic is already a dilute solution out of the bobble. You can cut it mit wasser more if you care to, but that is kind of against your purpose.

And whatever you do, keep it away from your better half's Clorox. You wouldn't want to know what happens if you manage to slosh them together, but the local HAZMAT squad will, and they won't be happy about it. Remebering that was the big clue to it being hydroCHLORIC vs. sul...sul...whatever. :pinch:

That said, if your tank is *really* rusty, you'll see it smoke a little when first applied. I'd make a point of avoiding those fumes.

Remember to put the cap on or plug the filler with something non-absorbent before swishing it about.

Post edited by: Pterosaur, at: 2006/05/08 15:50

Smokin'! I willed the tank 3/4 water then added about 1/3 gallon of meriatic. Feeling a little light headed now, I thought I stayed clear of most of those fumes. it actually was not smoking alot, just slight smoldering. the rust that was on the center divider completely disapeared, wow!


I cleaned it 2 years ago with naval jelly and thought the rust was gone. Should I bother with steps 2+3 of Kreem? from past experience it seems like the rust will just come back.....hmm


Oh, when I first cleaned it I used naval jelly and acetone flash method.

Post edited by: guavatone, at: 2006/05/08 16:06

'Tole you it'd smoke...

I'd skip the Jizz Treatment personally.

Normal usage in summer shouldn't be a big deal. The biggest cause of iron oxides (rust) in the tank is water condensation in winter and whenever the bike sits for extended periods. Always fill the tank and add a stabilizer before parking it.