Dim lights and blown fuses

Hi,

I had a bit of trouble with a blown main fuse the other day - so I replaced it, retaped some of the connectors that I could find that had some of the bullet showing/touching metal, and thought it was fine.. I figured it was just shorting a little.

I am able to ride the bike without any trouble, but every now and then, after riding it a little, the main fuse blows. I checked the areas that I taped, and it seems fine still.

When I replace it, I can get the bike started no problem, but as soon as I hit the brakes - pedal or lever, when stationary in neutral - the neutral indicator light dims. If I rev it for a bit, or hit the brakes while revving it, the light doesnt dim as much the next time.

Is this a charging system problem? I have automotive plug wires on there, with standard automotive boots. I was told by a mechanic that I needed to use MC boots, because the bike needs a certain amount of resistance in the system to work properly. He said 5K ohms, but when I test from boot 1 to 4, it says 12K - so I figured I was safe. Am I damaging the charging system without knowing it?

The power across the battery is good - as is the power from either side of the fuse holder to frame. Its not a power problem that I can tell. I checked everything in the bucket, and all the connectors are good..no wires showing, no obvious corrosion.

Help please! I don't want to get stuck somewhere without any options..I've been lucky enough so far, but don't want it to run out.

Thanks.

get a wiring diagram and start looking at your ground circuits. it sound like you have some loose or corroded grounds

The number one cause of those symptoms is the fuse box.

When the fuse holders get dirty, there is a voltage drop on the fuse. This causes them to heat up. Eventually they melt, but are not really blowing from too much current. Check to see if the fuses get warm while revving the bike to 2000 and holding the brake light on for a minute.

You can also measure the voltage across the fuse. Measure the voltage on end of the fuse to the other. It should be less than a volt, I think. If not, then try cleaning the fuse holders.

Of course ther can be other causes,but that's the first one I would check.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/11/17 13:34

Thanks Lou..

I also have a bit of trouble where if I have the turn signal on - either left or right - then switch on the hazard switch, I get a pained groan out of the bike, and the fuse gets hot. The indicator lights on the dash go dim, but are both on at the same time.

I have a feeling that its part of the problem.. could it be the flasher that's gone on me, or would that be the rear signal frame grounds?

I'm lucky I have the clymer - so I can definitely check out the grounds tonight, and replace the fuse if it goes on me, on my way home.

pyxen wrote:

Thanks Lou..

I also have a bit of trouble where if I have the turn signal on - either left or right - then switch on the hazard switch, I get a pained groan out of the bike, and the fuse gets hot. The indicator lights on the dash go dim, but are both on at the same time.

I have a feeling that its part of the problem.. could it be the flasher that's gone on me, or would that be the rear signal frame grounds?

I'm lucky I have the clymer - so I can definitely check out the grounds tonight, and replace the fuse if it goes on me, on my way home.

Keeping with excellent advice already recieved, might want to get a look inside that switchblock first.

If my guess is right, the horn button is also in the neighborhood, and the relatively tight fit of connections in there could be up to mischief. It's a fairly common source of head-scratchers.

Pull it apart, clean the connections and contacts, and re-assemble carefully - keeping the itty-bitty wires as separated as possible - the routing is pretty self explanitory.

Odds are your problem is there.

Well, I can't really say much more based on the symptoms, but I would definitely clean the fuse holders meticulously.

If the hazards and signals work, I'm not sure there is a short there. What type of groan is it? Is it a groan, or more of a moan?

its definitely a groan.

Here's one for you..which is possibly part of it.

What is this, and would the corrosion on the connectors be the root of my problems?



I know it isn't the flasher - its the one right next to it - if that helps.

Edit: okay..so I answered my own question at bkawasaki.com, but is the corrosion my problem? If so - is there an aftermarket turn signal relay that I can use instead of an OEM part? I'm sure its like 50 bucks from Kawi, and 5 from Canadian Tire or something

Post edited by: pyxen, at: 2006/11/17 16:58

Go to your local auto parts emporium and get a transistorized electronic flasher not the old thermal type. They are a bit more expensive 7.50 or so and work MUCH better. They use a timing circuit not heat from resistance to work
Ride safe,
Les

Does this take care of the corroded relay?

Can I bypass the relay then?

pyxen wrote:

Does this take care of the corroded relay?

Can I bypass the relay then?

I believe that IS the flasher. They call it a relay on the diagram, but I'm pretty sure it's the flasher (hazard or turn, you have two).

Get an electronic one like the Milkman says. It'll work better than the thermal ones.

loudhvx wrote:

pyxen wrote:

Does this take care of the corroded relay?

Can I bypass the relay then?

I believe that IS the flasher. They call it a relay on the diagram, but I'm pretty sure it's the flasher (hazard or turn, you have two).

Get an electronic one like the Milkman says. It'll work better than the thermal ones.

You can do that, or the local chain-type auto stores have a cheap-o equivalent at about $4 or $5 - put one in mine 3 or 4 years ago, hasn't missed a blink since.

Another vote for fuse connections. I usually clean connections and use some conductive grease to stop the corrosion from returning. Make sure your fuses are making good contact and that they're not oversized for the holder too.

And yes, you're right, the flasher is about $10 at Crappy Tire. I get mine at Lordco for $7CAD.

Wow, November in Ottawa, must be freezing...